To create the perfect fitting midway corset to hold up the top heavy ladys who still wish to run.
This project is something i started after i got back from a placement at prangsta costumiers. If any of you have some sewing ability and live in london, ask at prangsta. Explain that you wish to further your skills and are willing to work one or 2 days a week for free, and they will be very patient with you. Have never heard them say no.
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First off, I am not going to go through it with a fine tooth comb, i am going to explain what i did and the bits that most tutorials assume you know.
First the pattern, you can either use other peoples guides to pattern drafting your perfect size, or go to your wardrobe unlock'd and sign up for a month and make use of their pattern drafting info, it is what i used to draw up this corset and it works beautifully, with a few tweeks, most of the time.
Or purchase yourself a historic pattern book, and give it a go.
After you have drawn the pattern you can play around with the shape, it will most likely be a full corset you have drawn so for the one I just made I divided it a little above the waist line, because I'm short and you can draw a line in any shape you like but for this one i'd go with a nice simple straight line, so it sits neatly on your tummy.
There are two ways to make the corset, i suggest 2 layers of fabric and some interfacing for one set of pieces if it's very thin, I used to use it on the lining but perhaps boning behind the interfacing is better.
You can either iron on the interfacing and then place the 2 pieces together, and tack in place, followed by tacking the corset pieces together, you will get a very rigid smooth corset.
Or you can sew the front together and the back together and attach at the ends. This did not work in my favour with another corset I was making. It didn't match up perfectly and I botched the busk so I am going to remake it.
This type of lining worked well for the bra corset amazingly.
You will sew the seams together when using the second type of instruction. So sew at both ends, twist over and pin all the way along smoothly and sew together.
You should use a steam iron for the seams to get the best flatness, and I mean a proper steam iron you have control of. My seams in this one are much better than my last corset when I didn't have the iron.
I've used steel boning, and I mean like crinoline boning rather than spiral steel. Vena cava have ready sized pieces, I suggest you make use of her as tipping your own steel is a nightmare and you need your own snipping tools.
If you do tip it you need to file down the metal, and dip it in tool dip, or kitchen sealant. And be patient. I wasn't, which is why one day my steel will probably poke it's way through the fabric.
To insert the steel I put it in along the seams because these are very straight ones, apparently I am box shaped, most depressing. So I put the steel in along the seam, pinned them close to it, pushing them along side as much as I can. The sewed with a zipper foot. Make sure lengths are a centimetre and a half less than the corset length because of binding the edges.My binding still isnt perfect and it's bugging me.
Make sure you but one bone at the very end, and 1 bone 3cms ish away to put the eylets in between. And also make sure your centre bones are one either side of the middle, it will feel better.
Be careful with the zip foot, you will break a needle, books suggest you purchase goggles, just in case.
I will..one day...I will!
To insert eyelets get some decent hole punches. Mine hate me so making holes in the back was a nightmare, but I start them off with an awl (radall...whatever you wish to call it) Make sure you are using eyelets with washers, get a nice rubber mallet for your sewing room, get the top of the eyelet in, place the bottom bit in the lower segment and hammer away.
Binding, eurghhhhhh, do it by hand.
Open out the binding strips you've bought most likely off Ebay, but you really should buy nice stuff, this one doesn't like me too much.place it along the back edge of the corset, with about 2 inches over hang.
I do it backwards first because if it isn't perfect you want the stitches on the back, also think about using a different coloured bobbing if the inside of the corset differs, I didn't but I'm not selling it.
Pin the binding down so the top edge is flat out against the edge of the corset, sew along the line, then fold it over to the other side, be careful of the steel bones.
Use the zip foot, it's a lot easier.
When you fold it, chop the extra on the ends to a point, so you fold it in and under, pin down and sew along.
Repeat for top or bottom whichever you didn't sew.
Voila, a corset. I want to find out the difference spiral boning on shape, but it will have to wait till after pay day, would happily wear this to work but it'll look odd lol.
And to all those ladies whose bras hurt them, good luck, this really feels divine.