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A how to guide to a popular top
So I've been seeing this cute top in a couple of different stores (Magenta Top in image)... I had about a 1 1/2 yards of this flower print and I decided I to give it a shot and duplicate it. Please excuse the poor photo quality, I took them with my phone very late at night.

Posted by Emmyann07 from Sacramento, California, United States • Published See Emmyann07's 47 projects »

  • How to make a collared top. Ruffle Collar Tank  - Step 1
    Step 1

    1) Start with a basic shirt pattern


    This is a pattern I had lying around that I had used for a different project. I'm self taught so I don't know much about pattern drafting but I am confident enough to alter patterns. You can use any top pattern and modify it into a tank, use an actual tank pattern or use one of your own tops as a model.

  • How to make a collared top. Ruffle Collar Tank  - Step 2
    Step 2

    2) Altering the shirt pattern

    I altered the pattern by...
    - Making it larger (it was cut out at pattern size 4, I added 3/4" to the width to make it a pattern size 8)

    - I changed the neckline to something more suited for a tank by cutting a slight V neckline 4 1/2" long on each side, bringing out the arm hole a little and leaving the straps off

    - I wanted a racer back so I just cut it to the desired shape

  • How to make a collared top. Ruffle Collar Tank  - Step 3
    Step 3

    3) Making the ruffle pattern
    I'm amazed at how dumb I was about the ruffle section. I spent so much time messing with scrap muslin trying to figure out how it was structured... after I finally did I was so embarrassed by how simple it was.

    - You'll need to double up (or fold) your fabric and cut two of these "triangles"

    - You'll want to cut out a right triangle about 6 1/2" high, 23 1/4" long and with a hypotenuse (Look! Math! And you thought you'd never have to use it again....) of 24 5/8"

    - Measure 14" along the length starting from the right angle (ha! more math) and mark. At the 14" mark you'll want to cut straight up, cutting off the tip of the triangle

    - Use a cup or any round object that fits to round off the upper corner by tracing then cutting (sorry, picture is upside down)

    - Once you have all your cut pieces (there should be four total) you'll want to sew them right sides together with a 1/4" seam making sure leaving to leave a small un-sewn gap so you can turn it inside out

    - Clip corners, turn piece inside out, press and sew open gap closed (you can use a slip stitch to hide it or be lazy and just sew it close to the edge with your machine)

  • How to make a collared top. Ruffle Collar Tank  - Step 4
    Step 4

    4) Making the Ruffle
    The image is a back view with the piece turned 90 degrees CC
    To make the ruffle you'll want to....

    - Starting from the rounded corner measure 4 1/2" and fold fabric BEHIND, lining up upper edge. Press.

    - Turn over. From pressed edge measure 3", fold over top, press

    - From second pressed edge measure 1 1/2", fold over top, press

    - From third pressed edge measure 1 1/2" (aka fold in half remaining length), press

  • How to make a collared top. Ruffle Collar Tank  - Step 5
    Step 5

    5)Finishing Ruffles

    - Pin folds in place

    - Stitch together close to the edge at the upper ruffle catching all layers

    - Repeat step 4 in mirror to make second ruffle

  • How to make a collared top. Ruffle Collar Tank  - Step 6
    Step 6

    6) Darts (optional)

    It may be hard to tell in the picture but the pattern I used called for darts at the bust. It's one of the reasons I decided to use this pattern because the look of the shirt is very unfitted/ boxy so a nice little detail like this adds a little fit at the bust. I recommend using a pattern with darts or modifying one to make room for them. If you don't want to / aren't able to include this in your design it's not necessary to have.

  • How to make a collared top. Ruffle Collar Tank  - Step 7
    Step 7

    9) Sewing the top

    - Pin center back seam right sides together
    - sew seam with a 5/8" allowance, finish edges and press flat
    - Pin front and back part of shirt together at edges with right sides together
    - Sew seam with a 5/8" allowance , finish edges and press seams flat towards the shirt front
    - Hem shirt neckline and racer back neck line by double folding by 1/2", pining, stitching and pressing
    - Leave armholes and racer back edges UNFINISHED (see step 8)

    - Hem bottom with a 1/2" double fold, press, pin, sew

  • How to make a collared top. Ruffle Collar Tank  - Step 8
    Step 8

    8) Bias Tape

    To learn how to make bias tape please see http://www.burdastyle.com/techniques/how-to-make-bias-tape/technique_steps/8

    - I made a simple 1" bias strips using the tutorial above
    - I don't have a nifty little bias tape folding tool so I hand folded and pressed the strips into a double fold bias tape at least a yard long
    - This bias tape will serve two functions: 1) It will cover the remaining raw edges and 2) It will become the shoulder straps to connect the back and front of the shirt

  • How to make a collared top. Ruffle Collar Tank  - Step 9
    Step 9

    9) Finishing Edges and Making Straps

    To attach bias tape...
    - On wrong side of shirt pin right side of bias tape, lining up raw edges
    - "Stitch in ditch" by sewing along inner fold closest to the edge
    - Fold tape over raw edge (exposing right side of tape) and tucking in remaining folded to create a finished edge
    - Press as you pin in place, and sew tape close to finished edge


    To create straps...

    - You'll want to leave at least 6" length of tape extending past the finished neckline and racer back neck line on both sides

    - Fold in half, press and pin together

    - When sewing finished edges on your top, continue the stitch up the folded bias tape to create straps.

    - Do not sew straps together until after step 10.

  • How to make a collared top. Ruffle Collar Tank  - Step 10
    Step 10

    10) Scrunch racer cover (Optional)

    To make a scrunch cover for your racer back (which I decided I wanted at the last min) you'll need to...

    - measure a rectangle of fabric about 3 1/2" wide and twice the length of your racer back (neck to shoulder blades) long.

    - Hem top and bottom of the rectangle (the shorter side)

    - Fold in half (hot dog style!) right sides together. Pin, sew 1/2" seam, turn inside out, and press

    - Feed tube over racer back top, scrunching it down

    -If you don't want it to slide up or down, tack in place

  • How to make a collared top. Ruffle Collar Tank  - Step 11
    Step 11

    11) Finishing touches

    To connect front and back straps...
    - Try on top, pin front and back straps together at desired length and placement.
    - Take off top, measure to make sure they are even.
    - Cut straps 1/2" past pinned length (both sides should have an addition 1/2" length)
    - Unpin and place back strap INSIDE front strap by 1", pin in place
    - Fold in front strap edge inward, onto back strap by 1/2" (you may have to poke it in with a pencil or needle head), pin and press
    - Sew straps in place using a zig-zag stitch making sure to backs titch.


    To attach ruffle...
    - Pin ruffles long neckline edge (If you measured and cut properly the should fit in place perfectly, if not simply center the ruffles... a little gap at the edges wont hurt any)
    - Sew in place as close to edge as possible, back stitching at the beginning and end.

  • How to make a collared top. Ruffle Collar Tank  - Step 12
    Step 12

    12) Enjoy your new spring top!

    - Congratulations! You have successfully made a ruffle collar tank :)

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Lindsey  N.
Lindsey N. · Backus, Minnesota, US · 29 projects
OHMY! This is just too cute. I'm going to try this once I have time!
Elan H.
Elan H. · Riyadh, Riyadh Province, SA
I love this! Great job <3
Emmyann07 · Sacramento, California, US · 49 projects
Thank you Happy I try...
Laura R.
Laura R. · Manchester, England, GB · 32 projects
Great how to Happy

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