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How To Sew Darts

Extract from A Beginner's Guide to Making Skirts • By Wendy Ward • Published by CICO Books


$ $ $ $ $
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25 mins

A Beginner’s Guide to Making Skirts
Darts give three-dimensional shape to a flat piece of fabric. They are used to fit garments around curved parts of the body; in skirts, this is the waist and hips.

The point of a dart always aims toward the area of fullness on the body that it is shaping the fabric around—for example; a waist dart in a skirt points toward the hips.

Posted by Ryland Peters & Small Published See Ryland Peters & Small's 148 projects » © 2024 Wendy Ward / CICO Books · Reproduced with permission. · A Beginner’s Guide to Making Skirts by Wendy Ward, published by CICO Books (£14.99) Illustrations by Julian Ward © CICO Books

You Will Need

  • How to sew a dart. How To Sew Darts - Step 1
    Step 1

    Mark the point and the two wide ends of the dart on the wrong side of your fabric with tailor’s chalk or a marking pencil, then connect the marks to draw in the sides of the dart, using a ruler to get a straight line. Now you have a stitching line to follow.

  • How to sew a dart. How To Sew Darts - Step 2
    Step 2

    With right sides together, fold along the center of the dart to the point, so that the two stitching lines lie on top of each other. Pin and baste (tack) in place along the marked stitching line.

  • Step 3

    Start machining at the wide end of the dart, on the edge of the fabric. Do a reverse stitch to secure your stitching.

  • How to sew a dart. How To Sew Darts - Step 4
    Step 4

    At the point of the dart, gradually trail your stitching off the fabric so that the last stitch lands just off the edge of the fabric. Don’t reverse stitch at the point of your dart. Knot the threads securely and cut the ends to approx. 3/8 in. (1 cm) long.

  • How to sew a dart. How To Sew Darts - Step 5
    Step 5

    This will make the point of your dart nice and flat. If you reverse stitch or finish sewing too far from the fold of the fabric at the point of the dart, you will get a little pouch rather than a smooth point at the end.

  • How to sew a dart. How To Sew Darts - Step 6
    Step 6

    Press the dart toward the center front or center back of your garment over a tailor’s ham. Using a ham allows you to press the whole length of the dart and maintain the 3-D shape that it’s started to form rather than flattening it. If you don’t have a ham, use the end of your ironing board when pressing your dart to maintain its shape.

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