How To Hand Pick A Lapped Zipper

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  Step 1

  First, finish the edges of your fabric where the zipper will go. Here, I've serged each side.

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  Step 2

  Apply a stay tape or bit of fusible interfacing to the edge. The fabric can stretch out as you sew the zipper, and this prevents that and keeps the seam nice and sturdy.

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  Step 3

  Apply the stay tape. Here, I'm using a fusible stay tape and have placed a press cloth between the iron and tape.

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  Step 4

  Stitch the seam below the zipper. This is usually marked by a notch on your pattern. You can also put the zipper up to your fabric to measure where it will stop.

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  Step 5

  Press the right side (as you look at the garment) of the zipper opening under 1/2". This creates the underlap side, the side that is right up against the edge of the zipper. On the left side, press under 5/8". This is the overlap side. It will be a flap that goes entirely over your zipper.

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  Step 6

  Pin your zipper into place. The underlap side goes right next to the edge of the teeth, the overlap side should completely cover the zipper. Then get to hand stitching! You'll need to double your thread so it's nice and strong. The hand pick stitch, or pick stitch, is done by making a tiny back stitch on the outside of your fabric. This creates a tiny stitch on the outside, and a longer running stitch on the inside.

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  Step 7

  Here is the inside where you can see there is a longer stitch visible.

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  Step 8

  The completed lapped zipper. The lapped side of the fabric is entirely covering the zipper, and you can barely see the tiny pick stitches!

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Steph. · Reading, England, GB · 212 projects 30th May 2014

I love all your "technique" tutorials! Thanks so much for posting them

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