The first bracelet is one I just made, using my wooden loom for the first time. The seed beads that came with are bigger than what I usually use.
The second bracelet I made a few years ago and the first one I ever made, and I have worn the crap out of that bracelet and it's still holding up. I made that one on my plastic loom, which I think I like better. They both were only $10 at Wal-Mart with beads included.
The other bracelets are not stretchy but have clasps added for closure. Aaaannd, you can try pony beads too; the last one turned out cute, but I really don't like those type of beads.
First off, this is my plastic loom, which I just love.
But using the wooden loom, determin how long to make your finished project by adding one inch to your wrist measurement. Then add 12 inches to the length of your finished project; this is the length to cut your (not stretched) stretchy string folded in half with overhand knot. Place on anchoring screw. Do not place knot past the coils. These are called the warp threads. It's easier to go to next step before spacing out the warp threads between the springs.
NOTE: To determine how many columns of beads you will have (beads going across a row), you will need one extra string of warp thread for each column, i.e. if you want 7 columns of beads, you will need 8 strings of warp thread.
Tie loose end of string in overhand knot, split in half and place on anchoring screw. Loosen wing nut to turn the post to tighten these threads across the loom.
Now you can go back to space warp threads between the springs.
Cut a piece of beading thread 30 inches long. This is the wefting string. Leave a 3 inch tail of thread, tie the weft thread to the outer thread on one side of the loom. This set up is for right handed users. Lefties should use the thread all the way to the right. Thread your needle.
Pass the weft through under the warp threads. At this point you can thread your beads first or after this step.
Slide the beads toward the knot and use your finger to push the beads up through the warp threads. While holding them in place, pass the the needle through the beads OVER the warp threads.
Continue this process adding your beads for each row to finish the length of your project. If you have a pattern, then of course go by that. I did gestimation work as I went along.
As you go along and your working space gets close to the springs, first loosen wing nut that has the extra length of warp thread and turn the post to release a small amount of the warp threads. Then the other end to tighten them back up again. At this point, your work will start to wind around the post.
Finish last row and tie your weft thread to an outside warp thread with a double knot. Thread back through a few row of beads to conceal the tail and cut off excess. Go back to first row and thread tail to do the same.
Remove work from loom and cut off knots at the ends. Tie double knots at the ends of warp threads in pairs close against the beads. This will prevent your work from getting loose. Match the opposite ends of the work and tie off to one another.
I ususally add a dab of super gel glue or jewelry glue to the knots.
Bury thread ends by weaving back through rows of beads.