*Size J hook
*Size G hook (for bra cups and lace tie only)
*4 ply worsted wt. yarn- main color (mc) of your choice, approx. 7 Â½ ozs.
Scraps of contrasting color (cc)
*Small amount of poly-fil stuffing
*Finished purse measures approx. 7â€ x 11â€
NOTE: Unless otherwise stated, entire purse is worked with 2 strands of yarn held together at the same time.
RND 1: With J hook and mc, ch 23, 3 sc in 2nd ch from hk, 1 sc in next 20 sc, 3 sc in last ch. Working on opposite side of foundation ch, work 1 sc in next 20 sts. Do not join, but mark each rnd. (46 sc)
RND 2: 1 sc in next sc, *3 sc in next sc (center sc of 3 sc group), 1 sc in each rem sc around, working 3 sc in center sc of next 3 sc group.* (50 sc)
RND 3: 1 sc in next 2 sc, work between stars of rnd 2. (54 sc)
RND 4: 1 sc in next 3 sc, work between stars of rnd 2. (58 sc)
RND 5: Working in Back lps only for this rnd, work 1 sc in each sc around. Unused free front lps of rnd 4 will be used later.
RNDS 6-10: Work even on 58 sc.
RND 11: *1 sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in next sc, rep from* around, ending 1 sc
in last 2 sc. (65 sc)
RNDS 12-24: Work even.
RND 25: For edging, work 1 sl st in each sc around, fasten off. Now return to free lps of rnd 4, turning top of purse positioned at bottom of work. With cc, J hook, and SINGLE strand of yarn, join with sl st in center free lp at back of purse. Work 1 sl st in each rem lp around. Fasten off.
RND 1: Ch 61, 1 sc in 2nd ch from hk and in each ch across. (60 sc)
RNDS 2-3: Work even on 60 sc. Fasten off. Fold handle in half lengthwise and sew edges together. Do not sew the bottom 1â€ (more or less if desired) on each end of handle. This will be left open and flat. Handle will more easily be sewn into position and not so bulky, if left open in this manner.
Do not sew handle onto purse until after the remainder of it completed. This will help in the correct positioning of the handle.
With G hook and SINGLE strand of yarn, make a chain about 32â€ long. Fasten off and set aside.
Note: Each bra cup is made up of 2 triangle pieces each, with rows worked across the top after triangles are sewn together. Each bra cup is worked with size G hook and SINGLE strand of yarn.
TRIANGLE 1 (make 2, one for each bra cup)
ROW 1: Beg at top point, with size G hk, and mc, ch 2, 2 sc in 2nd ch from hk,
ch 1, turn.
ROW 2: 2 sc in 1st sc, 2 sc in last sc, ch 1, turn.
ROW 3: 2 sc in 1st sc, 1 sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in last sc, ch 1 turn. (6 sc)
ROW 4: Work even on 6 sc, ch 1, turn.
ROW 5: 2 sc in 1st sc, 1 sc in each sc across, 2 sc in last sc, ch 1, turn. (8 sc)
ROW 6: Rep row 5. (10 sc)
ROW 7: Work even.
ROWS 8-9: Rep row 5. (14 sc)
ROW 10: Work even on 14 sc. Fasten off mc. Row 10 is wrong side of work and is the bottom of the triangle. Remaining 2 sides are long sides of the triangle. Now, turn the triangle just completed to the right side. With cc, attach yarn with sl st in top point of triangle, sc in same st. Work 9 more sc evenly spaced along this long side of triangle. Fasten off cc.
TRIANGLE 2 (make 2)
Work same as triangle 1 WITHOUT the cc row. Row 10 is wrong side of work.
Now take a triangle 1 with the cc row at the left hand side and point of triangle at top of work. Next, take a triangle 2, right side up, with the point at top. Place long sides together ( right sides against each other). With mc sew long sides together, fasten off, turn to right side.
You will note that after triangles are joined, that the long curved shaping (row 10â€™s) should be at the bottom of your work. The top is a long straight edge. Bottom portion of bra cup is now completed.
TOP PORTION OF BRA CUP
ROW 1: With cc and long straight edge of joined triangles at top, (right side facing) join yarn with a sl st in top right corner st. Work 1 sc in same st, and 19 more sc evenly spaced across the remaining stitches (actually working in the ends of rows of the 2 triangles) of the top edge. Fasten off cc and join mc, ch 1, turn. (20 sc)
ROW 2: Working in FRONT LOOPS ONLY for this rnd, dec over 1st 2 sc, 1 sc in each sc, up to center 2 sc, dec over these center 2 sc, 1 sc in rem sc, dec over last 2 sc, ch 1, turn. (17 sts)
ROW 3: 1 sc in 1st 3 sts, 1 hdc in next 3 sts, 1 dc in next 5 sts, 1 hdc in next 3 sts, 1 sc in last 3 sts, ch 1, turn.
ROW 4: 1 sc in 1st 2 sts, 1 hdc in next 2 sts, 1 dc in next 2 sts, 2 dc in next 5 sts, 1 dc in next 2 sts, 1 hdc in next 2 sts, 1 sc in last 2 sts, ch 1, turn.
ROW 5: For edging, sl st in 1st st, *ch 3, sk 2 sts, 1 sc in next st, rep from* across, fasten off. (7 ch 3 lps) First bra cup completed. Work a second bra cup in same fashion as one just completed. Now you will sew bra cups to the front of purse. Pin them in place if necessary. Remember to leave enough space between them, in order to leave room for lacing tie. As you position cups, rows 4 and 5, only, of the top portion will extend above the top edge of purse. Also, slightly arch bra cups upward as you sew in place so cups can be more fully stuffed. Leaving a small hole open, finish stuffing cups to desired fullness.
Sew flat open ends of handle to inside edges of purse on each side. For lacing, start from inside purse at top between bra cups, bringing each end of lacing to front through holes made by stitches. Make 3 evenly spaced Xâ€™s, or criss crosses, down front of purse. As a general guideline, you may bring lace across about 5 rows or so for each X. This will be left to your own judgment. You will end up on the inside of purse once again on the last X, as ends are brought through to inside of purse. Now, you should have enough length left over to bring lace back to the top front of purse above first X made, in order to tie a small bow.
Although I never tried, you could experiment with different colors on the bra cup section since each cup is made in separate pieces.