About this project
War//Drobe is the name of some sort of "mini collection" i made just for me, just in my head :) it´s military inspired with many influences by different subcultures... here i thought of victorian and this japanese lolita stuff. like everything by me it has a dark touch...
I made this Bloomers with a basic trousers pattern, changed the length of the legs, added some pleats and made it some kind of "hipsters". I ruffled the hem and sewed on cuffs with piping out of lace. At the back i added something we call bumflap here, it´s made out of lace and has black lace ribbon at the hem. Last but not least i "upholstered" some buttons with the fabric and the lace and sewed on some epaulettes at the sides of the legs.
i think i will redo the yoke, it looks a bit crappy...
edit 18.02.2011: i´m at home due to swine flu so i thought of adding a how-to!! sorry, if there are some bugs, don´t hesitate to ask if something´s unclear! maybe i can add some more pics the next day!
First, grab your pattern and change it a bit:
*reduce the height at the waist (if you already have hipsters or something like that it´s not neccesary) example for reduction: center front: 8cm down,
center back: 1/2 up to 2/3 of front=5cm,
side: average of front and back: 8+5=13/2=6.5cm
*shape your yoke
*decide where your trousers should end and add about 1cm
Decide on how much extra width for ruffling at the hem and how much extra width for the pleats you want.
if you want two pleats in every piece: divide the new "waistline" and the seam by three, draw lines between the points and cut them. add your width for pleats and ruffles between these lines. the more pleats you want the more lines you have to draw and cut!
Measure your thigh and maybe add some cm for comfort. decide the height of your band and draw a rectangle with these measurements. When you make a high band maybe it´s better to draw the lower ine a bit shorter than the upper, except your thigh is constant…
Copy the upper edge and the side seam of the back pieces (mirrored), shorten one side seam and leave the other intact. draw a curve between the two points. Decide where to put pleats (upper edge or side seam), curve the pleats to the diagonal highest point, cut the lines and put in the depth of your pleats.
Last but not least, decide how long and wide you want the epaulettes for decoration.
If everything´s alright, you can start cutting the real trousers!!
2 front pieces
2 back pieces
2 front yoke right
2 front yoke left
2 back yoke
1 bum flap
1 Underlap for the zipper
maybe bias tape for your piping and tape for piping the inner yoke
Don´t forget seam allowances!!
after cutting: the yoke pieces, the upper edge of the front and back trousers, the epaulettes and the bands need some interlining!
and i finished the side seams and the seam between the legs with a serger too.
Now start sewing!
When your lace has no finished edge or scallop, sew on some lace trim etc or leave it bare for fraying!
Place the pleats of the bumflap by basting or pinning them.
Place the pleats of the front and back parts. Look after the direction of the pleats!
close the inner seams and the front and back rise.
Baste the bumflap to the back parts (only in the seam allowance) and close the side seams.
when it looks like trousers, you´ve just done everything right!!
Insert your zipper.
Grab your pieces for the yoke and sew together front and back parts. Now you have two yokes, one for outside, one for inside. Their not equal, they´re mirrored so when you lay them right sides facing you can sew the upper edge.
Finish the inner lower edge of the yoke with bias tape made of lining. After that sew it to your trousers.
sew your bands (don´t forget piping and bias tape), ruffle your hem, so your bands fit to the edge and sew them on.
Sew the epaulettes. each with two pieces right sides facing. Leave a small gap for turning them over. When you turned, topstitch around the whole thingy.
upholster (don´t know, is it just for furniture? anyway, you know what i mean) your buttons. Stitch buttonholes in the epauletts and in the yoke and add them to the bloomers. TADAAA,