Violetta Gothic Doll

Knit a gothic doll.

https://www.cutoutandkeep.net/projects/violetta-gothic-doll • Posted by Search Press

Poor Violetta – a single vampire’s bite and she was doomed to ‘tread the boards’ for all eternity. But her audience left long ago, leaving no one to applaud her as she makes her dramatic appearance on the stage.

You will need

Purple, black and off-white Yarn for the hair Acrylic Paint s, watercolour paints or fine-tipped water-based marker pens in pale green (optional), red, green and brown Embellishment(s) and extras 2m (80in) length of 2.5cm (½in) wide black Lace for trimming dress Press Stud for dress 50cm (20in) of decorative black Satin Ribbon , about 1cm (½in) wide, for front of waistcoat 6cm (2¼in) length of narrow black Lace for choker necklace Polyester Fiberfill : I use the type of stuffing found in cheap pillows, or carded fleece, to stuff the dolls with. Polyester fibrefill is probably the easier to obtain, and is the better of the two for stuffing the heads. Carded fleece gives a lovely weight to the doll Yarn : 8-ply (DK) yarn in off-white for the head, torso, arms and legs 8-ply (DK) yarn in black for the collar and boots 5-ply (sport) yarn in red for the dress 5-ply (sport) yarn in black with a gold fleck for the waistcoat 5-ply (sport) yarn in black fo You will need three sizes of Knitting Needles – 3mm (UK 11, US 3), 4mm (UK 8, ?US 6) and 7mm (UK 2, US 11) – and a 3mm (UK 3/0, US 0 or D) crochet hook. The basic dolls are knitted using 3mm (UK 11, US 3) knitting needles, which is smaller than you would normally use with double knitting. This i Purple, pale green, black and red Embroidery Thread

Project Budget

Time

Difficulty

Description

Poor Violetta – a single vampire’s bite and she was doomed to ‘tread the boards’ for all eternity. But her audience left long ago, leaving no one to applaud her as she makes her dramatic appearance on the stage.

Instructions

1. Head Make one. Using 8-ply (DK) yarn in off-white and 3mm (UK 11, ?US 3) needles, cast on 3 sts. Row 1: inc in each st [6 sts]. Row 2: purl. Row 3: inc in each st [12 sts]. Row 4: purl. Row 5: inc in each st [24 sts]. Row 6: purl. Row 7: inc 1 st at each end of row [26 sts]. Row 8: purl. Row 9: inc 1 st at each end of row [28 sts]. Row 10: purl. Row 11: inc 1 st at each end of row [30 sts]. Row 12: purl. Row 13: inc 1 st at each end of row [32 sts]. Row 14: purl. Row 15: inc 1 st at each end of row [34 sts]. Row 16: purl. Row 17: cast on 5 sts, knit to end of row [39 sts]. Row 18: cast on 5 sts, purl to end of row [44 sts]. To shape the nose: Row 19: K21, inc in next 2 sts, K21 [46 sts]. Rows 20–22: SS for 3 rows. Row 23: K21, K2tog twice, K21 [44 sts]. Row 24: purl. Row 25: inc 1 st at each end of row [46 sts]. Rows 26–31: SS for 6 rows. Row 32: P2tog at each end of row [44 sts]. Row 33: K2tog at each end of row [42 sts]. Row 34: P2tog at each end of row [40 sts]. Row 35: K2tog at each end of row [38 sts]. Row 36: purl. Row 37: K2tog along row [19 sts]. Row 38: purl. Row 39: K2tog four times, K3, K2tog four ?times [11 sts]. Row 40: P2tog at each end of row [9 sts]. Row 41: knit and cast off as you go.

2. Ears Make two. Using 8-ply (DK) yarn in off-white and 3mm (UK 11, ?US 3) needles, cast on 4 sts. Row 1: inc in each st [8 sts]. Row 2: purl. Row 3: inc in each st [16 sts]. Row 4: purl. Row 5: K2tog at each end of row [14 sts]. Row 6: P2tog at each end of row [12 sts]. Row 7: K2tog along row [6 sts]. Row 8: purl and cast off as you go.

3. 

   Torso Make one. Using 8-ply (DK) yarn in off-white and 3mm (UK 11, ?US 3) needles, cast on 46 sts. Rows 1–14: SS for 14 rows. Row 15: *K1, K2tog*, rep from * to * to end of row, ending with a K1 [31 sts]. To shape the waist: Rows 16–20: SS for 5 rows. Row 21: *K1, inc 1 st*, rep from * to * to end of row, ending with a K1 [46 sts]. To shape the chest: Rows 22–28: SS for 7 rows. To shape the breasts: Row 29: K15, inc in each of next 16 sts, K15 [62 sts]. Rows 30–34: SS for 5 rows. To shape the shoulders: Row 35: K13, inc in next 2 sts, K2tog sixteen times, inc in next 2 sts, K13 [50 sts]. Rows 36–38: SS for 3 rows. Row 39: K13, K2tog twice, K16, K2tog twice, ?K13 [46 sts]. Row 40: purl. Row 41: K2tog along row [23 sts]. Row 42: purl. Row 43: *K2tog, K1*, rep from * to * to last 2 sts, ?K2tog [15 sts]. Row 44: P2tog at each end of row [13 sts]. To shape the neck: Rows 45–64: SS for 20 rows, casting off on last row.

4. Arms Make two. Using 8-ply (DK) yarn in off-white and 3mm (UK 11, US 3) needles, cast on 3 sts. Row 1: inc in each st [6 sts]. Row 2: purl. Row 3: inc 1 st at each end of row [8 sts]. Row 4: purl. Row 5: inc 1 st at each end of row [10 sts]. Row 6: purl. Row 7: inc 1 st at each end of row [12 sts]. Row 8: purl. Row 9: inc 1 st at each end of row [14 sts]. Row 10: purl. Row 11: inc 1 st at each end of row [16 sts]. Rows 12–15: SS for 4 rows. Row 16: cast on 5 sts, purl to end of row [21 sts]. Row 17: cast on 5 sts, knit to end of row [26 sts]. Row 18: purl. Row 19: cast off 5 sts, knit to end of row [21 sts]. Row 20: cast off 5 sts, purl to end of row [16 sts]. Row 21: K2tog at each end of row [14 sts]. Row 22: P2tog at each end of row [12 sts]. Rows 23–58: SS for 36 rows. Row 59: K2tog at each end of row [10 sts]. Row 60: purl. Row 61: K2tog at each end of row [8 sts]. Row 62: purl. Row 63: K2tog at each end of row [6 sts]. Row 64: purl. Row 65: K2tog three times [3 sts]. Row 66: cast off purlwise.

5. Legs Make two. Using 8-ply (DK) yarn in off-white and 3mm (UK 11, US 3) needles, cast on 3 sts. Row 1: inc in each st [6 sts]. Row 2: purl. Row 3: inc in each st [12 sts]. Row 4: purl. Row 5: inc 1 st at each end of row [14 sts]. Row 6: purl. Row 7: inc 1 st at each end of row [16 sts]. Row 8: purl. Row 9: inc 1 st at each end of row [18 sts]. Rows 10–100: SS, casting off on last row.

6. Boots Violetta’s boots are made separately but then stitched on and stuffed as part of the leg, giving a skin-tight look. Make two. Using 8-ply (DK) yarn in black and 4mm (UK 8, US 6) needles, cast on 3 sts. Row 1: inc in each st [6 sts]. Row 2: purl. Row 3: inc in each st [12 sts]. Row 4: purl. Row 5: inc 1 st at each end of row [14 sts]. Row 6: purl. Row 7: inc 1 st at each end of row [16 sts]. Row 8: purl. Row 9: inc 1 st at each end of row [18 sts]. Row 10: purl. Row 11: inc 1 st at each end of row [20 sts]. Rows 12–18: SS for 7 rows. To shape the heel: Row 19: cast on 7 sts, knit to end of row [27 sts]. Row 20: cast on 7 sts, purl to end of row [34 sts]. Row 21: K2tog at each end of row [32 sts]. Row 22: purl. Row 23: K2tog at each end of row [30 sts]. Row 24: P2tog at each end of row [28 sts]. Row 25: K2tog five times, K8, K2tog five times [18 sts]. Row 26: P2tog three times, P6, P2tog three ?times [12 sts]. To start the leg: Rows 27–32: SS for 6 rows. Row 33: inc 1 st at each end of row [14 sts]. Rows 34–38: SS for 5 rows. Row 39: inc 1 st at each end of row [16 sts]. Rows 40–42: SS for 3 rows. Row 43: inc 1 st at each end of row [18 sts]. Rows 44–48: SS for 5 rows. Row 49: inc 1 st at each end of row [20 sts]. Rows 50–81: SS for 30 rows, casting off on last row.

7. 

   To make up Fold each boot in half lengthways with right sides together. Mattress stitch up the entire length of each boot. Turn right side out. Stuff the foot area firmly without distorting. Slip a boot on to a stuffed leg as far ?as it will go. Ideally the tip of the leg will fit right down into the heel of the boot (not the toe). Stitch the boot to the leg around the top of the boot and repeat for the other leg.

8. 

   Face Eyes Start by pinning the felt shapes for the eyes to the face, with the edge of the upper eyelid, the iris and the pupil drawn on to each one, using the photographs on these pages for reference. Remember to catch in the knitted stitches underneath as you embroider the eyes to secure them to the face, and to use two or three strands of six-stranded embroidery thread. 1. Begin by using satin stitch and pale green embroidery thread to colour the irises, then use black thread to embroider the pupils. Alternatively, colour the eyes using a fine-tipped marker pen if you prefer. 2. Using purple thread, fill in the upper eyelids (between the line you drew on and the upper edge of the felt) with satin stitch. Extend this coloured area beyond the outer edges of the eyes to create a more dramatic effect. 3. Outline the upper eyelids in black using either tiny satin stitches or back stitch. 4. Using red thread, work small satin stitches around the lower edge of each eye to make them look bloodshot. 5. Work lines of red stitching running down from the eyes, to resemble dripping blood. 6. Mark in Violetta’s fine eyebrows with a pencil or vanishing fabric marker, then embroider them on in black using neat stem stitches. Colouring the face 1. To give the eyes a tired, haunted look, shade the area just above and just underneath each eye with brown. Use either a fine-tipped, water-based marker pen or very thin washes of acrylic or watercolour paint. 2. Touch a dab of red paint into each nostril. 3. Use green paint or ink to define the outer edge of ?each iris. Mouth 1. Start by pinning the felt shape for the mouth on to ?the face. 2. Use satin stitch and red thread to form the upper and then the lower lip. Catch some of the knitted surface as you stitch to secure the mouth to the face. 3. Define the lips with a line of back stitches between the upper and lower lips and around the outside of the lips if you wish. You may also like to shape Violetta’s mouth a little by pulling the embroidery thread at the outer corners of the mouth through to the back of the head and stitching it in place.

9. 

   Hair Fringe Make the fringe first as the longer yarn will cover the back edge of it. 1. Wind thick purple yarn around a piece of stiff cardboard approximately 5–8cm (2–3in) wide and 13cm (5in) long. Continue to wind until the yarn is sufficiently dense to form a thick fringe. 2. Cut through the loops of yarn along one of the long sides of the cardboard. 3. Unfold the strands of yarn carefully and lie them out flat in a line. Taking a few strands at a time, place them on the front of the head, along the hairline, and stitch across the yarn from one side of the forehead to the other, adding in more yarn as you go. 4. When the fringe is complete, fold it down over the face and trim it to the desired length. Long hair 1. Wind lengths of thick black and off-white yarn around a large book, in roughly equal proportions. When you have a thick wad of yarn, cut through the loops along one of the short ends and lay the yarns out flat. 2. Find the middle of the yarn lengths by measuring and carefully pick up about a quarter of the strands. Lay the bundle on the top of the doll’s head so that the strands fall evenly on either side, overlapping the back of the fringe slightly. Stitch along the mid-line to form the start of the centre parting. 3. Place and stitch another quarter of the yarn to the head, just behind the first bundle. Repeat until all the yarn is attached to the head. Make sure that the back of the head is covered. 4. Re-establish the centre parting and tie the hair up in two high bunches, one on each side of the doll’s head. You may wish to stitch the hair underneath the bunches to the scalp to hold them in place securely.

10. 

    Clothes Dress Make one. Using 5-ply (sport) yarn in red and 3mm (UK 11, US 3) needles, cast on 80 sts. Rows 1–14: SS for 14 rows. Row 15: K2tog at each end of row [78 sts]. Row 16: purl. Row 17: K2tog, K18, K2tog, K34, K2tog, K18, ?K2tog [74 sts]. Row 18: purl. Row 19: K2tog, K18, K2tog, K30, K2tog, K18, ?K2tog [70 sts]. Row 20: purl. Row 21: K2tog, K18, K2tog, K26, K2tog, K18, ?K2tog [66 sts]. Row 22: purl. Row 23: K2tog, K18, K2tog, K22, K2tog, K18, ?K2tog [62 sts]. Row 24: purl. Row 25: K2tog, K18, K2tog, K18, K2tog, K18, ?K2tog [58 sts]. Rows 26–44: SS for 19 rows. Row 45: K2tog, K18, K2tog, K14, K2tog, K18, ?K2tog [54 sts]. Row 46: purl. Row 47: K2tog, K18, K2tog, K10, K2tog, K18, ?K2tog [50 sts]. Rows 48–58: SS for 11 rows. Row 59: inc 1 st, K18, inc 1 st, K10, inc 1 st, K18, inc ?1 st [54 sts]. Row 60: purl. Row 61: inc 1 st, K18, K14, inc 1 st, K18, inc 1 st ?[58 sts]. Rows 62–69: SS for 8 rows. Row 70: purl and cast off. Sleeves Make two. Cast on 16 sts. Rows 1–20: SS for 20 rows. Row 21: K2tog at each end of row [14 sts]. Row 22: purl. Row 23: K2tog at each end of row [12 sts]. Row 24: purl. Row 25: K2tog at each end of row [10 sts]. Row 26: purl. Row 27: K2tog at each end of row [8 sts]. Row 28: purl. Row 29: K2tog at each end of row [6 sts]. Row 30: purl and cast off. To make up 1. Fold the dress in half, right sides together, and back stitch from the hem to within 1–2cm (about ¾in) of the top of the dress. Try it on the doll and if it is too snug a fit, sew a press stud on each side of the opening. Alternatively, sew the seam up to the top. 2. Fold each sleeve in half lengthwise with right sides together. Backstitch up the length of each sleeve. Turn ?right side out. 3. Lie the dress flat on a table with the front face up and the centre back seam face down. Line up the seam of one sleeve with the side of the dress and stitch it in place with ?a few stitches. The top part of the ?sleeve is not attached to the ?dress. Attach the other ?sleeve in the same way. 4. Run a row of gathering ?stitches along the centre ?line of a 1m (40in) length ?of 2.5cm (½in) wide black ?lace. Pull the thread to gather ?the lace, fold it in half and stitch ?it around the hem of the dress. 5. Take a 50cm (20in) length of the same ?lace and run gathering stitches along one edge. ?Pull the thread and stitch the gathered edge ?of the lace around the bottom of one sleeve. ?Trim the other sleeve in the same way. Collar Make one. Using 8-ply (DK) yarn in black and 4mm (UK 8, US 6) needles, cast on 15 sts. Row 1: inc in each st [30 sts]. Row 2: purl. Row 3: inc 1 st at each end of row [32 sts]. Row 4: purl. Row 5: inc 1 st at each end of row [34 sts]. Row 6: purl. Row 7: inc 1 st at each end of row [36 sts]. Row 8: purl. Row 9: inc 1 st at each end of row [38 sts]. Row 10: purl. Row 11: inc 1 st at each end of row [40 sts]. Row 12: purl and cast off. Waistcoat Make one. Using 5-ply (sport) yarn in black with a gold fleck and 4mm (UK 8, US 6) needles, cast on 30 sts. ow 1: knit. Row 2: purl. Rows 3: inc 1 st at each end of row [32 sts]. Row 4: purl. Rows 5–26: rep rows 3 and 4 [54 sts]. Row 27: K18, K2tog nine times, K18 [45 sts]. Rows 28–48: SS for 21 rows, casting off on last row. Straps Make two. Cast on 5 sts. Rows 1–15: SS for 15 rows, casting off on last row. To make up 1. Place the red dress on the doll then put the waistcoat on over the top. Bring it up to just under the armpits; note that the sides of the waistcoat do not meet at the front. Pin the waistcoat in place. 2. Pin a strap to each shoulder. Adjust the length and sew them in place, with any excess strap sewn under the waistcoat at the back. 3. Using small, neat stitches, attach the waistcoat ?by stitching it on to the dress around the front and neckline, and around the sleeves. Leave the back of ?the waistcoat unattached. 4. Using a decorative black satin ribbon, about 1cm (½in) wide, stitch the ribbon backwards and forwards across the front of the waistcoat in a zigzag pattern, as if lacing a shoe. 5. Pin the collar around the top of the waistcoat. The collar is designed to stand up, with the right side facing the front. Stitch the collar in place, gathering it slightly to fit if necessary. Necklace and tattoo Stitch a short length of narrow lace around Violetta’s neck to make a choker necklace. Using a single strand of black sewing thread, embroider a tatoo in whatever design you like just below her right shoulder. Pants Make one. Using 5-ply (sport) yarn in black and 3mm (UK 11, US 3) needles, cast on 42 sts. Rows 1–15: SS for 15 rows, casting off on last row. To make up Fold the rectangle in half to form a short tube. ?Backstich up the centre back seam and turn right ?side out. Lay the pants flat with the seam face down. ?With the black yarn, make three or four stitches at the base of the pants in the centre to form the crotch.