A fun, flirty, artsy skirt.
This skirt was inspired byy Vincent Van Gogh's "Starry Night Painting." Super Easy to make and has an elastic waist.
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Step one is to take your measurements.
This is an elastic waisted skirt, so you will need the opening to fit over your hips.
WIDTH: The width of each piece cut will therefore be based on your hip measurement.
Hips ____in. + 2 in. ease + 1 in. Seam Allowance = ____. Divide answer by 4. This is the width of each piece cut (you divide by four because we are cutting on the fold for both pieces).
LENGTH: the length is whatever you desire. Just measure from where you will tie the drawstring (natural waist for me) to where you want it to hit on your legs (just above the knee for me). Add a two inch seam allowance at the top and a one inch seam allowance at the bottom.
Marking and cutting your fabric:
Lay out your pre-washed, pressed fabric that has been folded lengthwise (this is the way it usually comes in the store).
The FOLDED edge will mark the center of each piece.
1. At the top edge mark (with a fabric writing ustensil) your skirt width (see measurement formula above)
2. On the folded edge, measure the length (remember to add a seam allowance) of the skirt.
3. From that length marking, mark the width of the skirt. This should line up with the width marking at the top).
*NOTE* I tapered in the bottom of my skirt by about 1.5 inches, although straight is easier and works well. I tapered it in by marking the bottom width 1.5 inches narrower than the top width.
4. Draw a line from the bottom width marking to the length marking that is on the fold (this should be a straight, horizontal line that runs perpendicular to the fold).
5. Draw a line from the top width to the bottom width.
-This line will be straight if the bottom width matches the top
-This line will be curved if you are tapering the skirt.
6. Cut along the lines!
7. Once you cut your first piece, use it (still folded down the center) to cut your second piece, which will also be on the fold.
1. Take your two pieces and pin them along the side seams, right sides together.
2. Straight stitch up each side with a 5/8 seam allowance.
Hem and Waistband:
Press bottom edge under a quarter of an inch. Press edge under again, 3/4in. Pin in place, if desired.
Press top edge under a quarter of an inch. Press under again, 1 and 1/2 inches.
Stitch bottom hem with desired seam allowance.
Stitch waistband as close to edge as possible, leaving a two-inch opening to feed in the elastic.
Cut and Feed in the elastic:
Measure and cut your elastic to the desired length, depending on how tight you want it. I usualy cut my elastic a little more than an inch shorter than my waist measurement.
Attach a safety pin to the end of the elastic.
Feed the elastic through the opening shown here, securing the other end with another pin so that it does not get pulled through the band.
After the elastic has been fed all the way through to the other side of the opening, securely stitch the two ends together, ensuring the elastic is not twisted (take your time on this part, as I have frequently stitch twisted elastic).
Stitch the opening closed.
Your skirt is fully constructed!!
Now it is time to open that bias tape.
Lay the bias tape on your ironing board. Press it out flat and then press back in half (longways, of course). I ad this step because bias tape has pressed hem, which is great for using it to bind garments but looks funny as a ruffle.
Using a straight stitch (either on your machine or by hand), stitch and gather your tape. The amount of "ruffleness" depends on your preference, although keep in mind that the more ruffled the piece is, the shorter it is.
Pin the ruffles on in the desired pattern.
Stitch the ruffles to the skirt in the places where they are pinned. I only stitched in these strategic places to preserve the bouncy look of the ruffles. You can machine stitch them, as I did (see photo), or hand stitch them.
You are done!!!