The Ultimate Shopping Bag for all those extras!
Learn how to make a roomy bag with lots of space for those extra things you end up carrying around everywhere!
Customise the bag but adding pockets and a contract fabric
Cut out the Fabric
From the main fabric you will need:
For the front/back upper panel 2 x 17cm x 42cm
For the front/back lower panel 2 x 27cm x 42cm
For the bottom gusset outer panel 1 x 10cm x 42cm
For the side and bottom inner panels 3 x 10cm x 42cm
From the contrast fabric:
For the front/back panel 2 x 42cm x 42cm
For the outer gusset side panels 2 x 10cm x 42cm
Optional from the contrast fabric:
For the inner patch pocket 1 x 28cm x 21cm
For the outer pocket 2 x 20cm x 17cm
For the contrast panel on the strap 2 x 4cm x 90cm
Mark the centre point of the outer pocket pieces and the outer front/back panels with a little snip.
I’ve used a 1cm seam allowance. As my fabric didn’t really fray that much I didn’t finish off any of my seam allowances or raw edges – they won’t be exposed anyway as the bag is lined. You may want to do this if your fabric is fraying quite a bit.
Construct the straps (optional)
If you would like the contrast panel on the straps – take the 4cm x 90cm strip. Fold and press 1cm along the two long edges towards the centre of the strip. Pin it to the cotton webbing strap wrong side down so that the raw edges are hidden. Using a blind stitch/ladder stitch hand sew the strip to the webbing so the stitching isn’t visible.
Using top stitch thread (I just used it in the top thread and had regular thread in the bobbin) stitch over your chalk markings. You will be stitching though the pocket pieces and the outer panel all at the same time. I left long thread tails and using a needle pulled the thread to the back to tie it off rather than add extra bulk with a reverse stitch.
Sew a rectangle of stitching on attach the handle to the upper panel of the front/back of the bag, using the top stitch thread, and stop 2cm from the top edge of the panel. This will allow you to fold and top stitch the very top of the bag at a later step.
Stitch the back panels together, sandwiching the handle in between with a 1cm seam allowance and press it downwards.
Attach the Internal Patch pocket to the lining (optional)
Hem the top edge of the internal pocket panel by folding and pressing 1cm, then 1cm again towards the wrong side of the fabric. Top stitch in place.
Fold and press 1cm along the side and bottom edges of the panel.
Pin the panel onto the front/back lining section 8cm down from the top edge and 8cm from the side edges.
Top stitch the pocket panel in place with a little triangle at the top corners. This prevents excess strain on the fabric.
Construct the lining of the bag
Following the same process, sew the lining front/back panels to the gusset panels.
Iron a small patch, approx 3cm square, of interfacing onto the centre of the front and back panel to reinforce it where the magnetic clasp will be.
Cut the plastic canvas to size (optional)
I used two layers of plastic canvas for the bottom panel, cut to 8cm x 40cm. Place it into the bottom of the bag. It will be sewn in place later.
Top Stitch the side edges of the bag (optional)
I’ve marked this step as optional as its not essential but I think it frames the bag nicely and will also make the side panels stay at the side.
Press the side edges of the bag and top stitch the seam – just on the outer fabric of the bag, don’t catch the lining as well – although you will a little bit at the top edge of the bag. I use regular thread for this as I didn't want it to be a feature - just a subtle addition.
Attach the magnetic clasp and fix plastic canvas in place
Hand sew the magnet clasp on to the centre of the lining fabric.
Manoeuvre the plastic canvas in place and sew a few stitches in each bottom corner of the bag sewing though the lining and outer bag.
And there you have a lovely bag! Perfect as a gift for all those extra essentails and a great way to avoid paying lots of 5ps!