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Time
10 mins

Making a spiral coil: inner to outer
This is a method for making a spiral coil, working from the center of the spiral outward. This technique is used throughout the book to finish off frame wire ends and add embellishment and details.

Posted by GMC Group Published See GMC Group's 303 projects » © 2020 Rachel Norris / GMC Publications · Reproduced with permission. · Mastering Wirework Jewelry by Rachel Norris, published by GMC (£19.99, available from www.thegmcgroup.com)
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  • How to make a jewelry settings. Spiral Coil - Step 1
    Step 1

    Once you have cut your wires to the desired length and perhaps wrapped along some of the wires with wrapping wire, you can curl the bare wire ends. Shape the bale wire ends using round-nosed pliers to start the curl and use fingers and pliers to finish the curl.

  • How to make a jewelry settings. Spiral Coil - Step 2
    Step 2

    When you start the curl, it will look like a “P” with a straight end. This won’t curl into a nice circle easily and might even curl into an oval shape.

  • How to make a jewelry settings. Spiral Coil - Step 3
    Step 3

    Cut the end off with flush cutters so the curl is rounder.

  • How to make a jewelry settings. Spiral Coil - Step 4
    Step 4

    Curl the ends using round-nosed pliers initially for the first spirals.

  • How to make a jewelry settings. Spiral Coil - Step 5
    Step 5

    Use flat-nosed pliers for the outer spirals. Use your other hand to help guide the wire into the curl as you use the pliers on the end of the wire. Stop when you have reached the desired spiral size.

    NOTE: Do not use pliers on wrapped wire or you might damage the wire.

  • How to make a jewelry settings. Spiral Coil - Step 6
    Step 6

    Spirals can be made tightly coiled, as shown here, or loosely coiled to suit your design. Press the curled ends into place with your fingers and adjust them so they are balanced and symmetrical. You can arrange them in any pattern you wish over the design in later stages. You can also hammer the spiral to obtain a flat reflective surface.

    Tip
    Practice making the shapes and the wraps with scrap wire so you are happy that you can get the shape right with the real thing.

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