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20 mins

Jemma Kidd Make-Up Secrets
Sultry and sensuous, Italian actress Sophia Loren has been a beauty icon since she was a starlet in the 1950s. Her trademark cat-shaped eyes were achieved by applying liquid liner around the whole eye, meeting in a point at both corners. False lashes followed the eyeliner, extending beyond the lash line to accentuate the elongated shape. Eyeshadow, usually in soft brown, was blended over the lid and above the crease. Her strong brows were shaped into a rounded arch and brushed up for a textured finish. White pencil eyeliner along the waterline was another feature. Her cheekbones were sculpted in peach, and her full lips were usually lightly glossed in nude, pink or soft brown.

Sophia Loren’s sex-siren make-up is all about the dramatic eye shape, created with thick liquid liner that flicks up and out to give the illusion of elongated almond-shaped eyes.

keynotes of the Sophia Loren look
The elongated cat’s-eye shape was Sophia Loren’s calling card. Use liquid or gel liner boldly to create the accentuated upward and outward flick.
For maximum drama, apply false lashes to extend beyond the lash line to really lengthen the eyes.
Use shades of brown eyeshadow to colour the lids and deepen the socket crease. Choose warm browns if your skin has yellow undertones, and cooler earthy browns if your skin has red undertones.
White eyeliner along the waterline brightens the eyes and makes them look larger. It also makes the black eyeliner look sharper.
For a full pout, keep lips soft and lightly glossy in shades of nude, soft pink or brown.

Top tip
Drawing the eye shape with pencil liner first not only means you can get the shape right and use that as a guide when applying the trickier gel or liquid liner, but it also intensifies the liner and gives it greater staying power.

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© 2023 Jemma Kidd / Aurum Press · Reproduced with permission. · Jemma Kidd Make-up Secrets: Solutions to every woman’s beauty issues and make-up dilemmas by Jemma Kidd, published by Jacqui Small, £25 Hardback
  • How to create an eye makeup look. Sophia Loren - Step 1
    Step 1

    The trademark cat’s eye
    1 Brush the brows up, then use an angled brow brush and natural powder to create texture as you fill in any gaps. Create a blunt end at the inner corner and an elegant arch tapering to a point at the outer corner.
    2 Prime the eyelid to create a smooth and neutral base. Fill in the waterline with nude or white eyeliner.
    3 Apply a warm brown eyeshadow from the upper lash line to the socket, then darken and define the crease.
    4 Use a black pencil eyeliner to draw under the bottom lashes. Curve the line up and out at the outer corner, taking it towards the end of the brow. Draw along the upper lash line, starting at the inner corner and joining up with the bottom line. Fill in the triangle shape to create a flick in the outer corner. Go over the shape with black gel or liquid liner.
    5 Apply lots of mascara to the top and bottom lashes and add a set of full false lashes for drama.

  • How to create an eye makeup look. Sophia Loren - Step 2
    Step 2

    Glowing skin with contoured cheekbones
    6 Apply a hydrating primer to create a smooth base, and even out the skin with a medium-coverage foundation. Use a creamy concealer to cover any blemishes or under-eye shadows and then set with translucent powder.
    7 Contour under the cheekbones and along the hairline with matte bronzer.
    8 Brush a soft rose powder blusher lightly over the cheekbones to create a natural flush.
    9 Blend crème highlighter along the cheekbones, the bridge of the nose and under the arches of the brows.

  • Step 3

    Natural full pout
    10 Exfoliate the lips and moisturize with lip balm to create a smooth base. Then apply a sheer nude lipstick for a soft, healthy-looking finish.

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