Sewcabulary: Five Different Finishing Seams And How To Sew Them

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  Step 1

  *We'll be using 5/8 seam allowance through this tutorial.*

  We'll begin with a regular seam, just so we're all clear on what we're doing here.

  I'd like to emphasize that while the seams I'm about to show you are done on small, sample pieces of fabric, please remember that these can be used on side seams (skirt front to skirt back, bodice front to bodice back, tote bag front to tote bag back etc.), and adjoining seams (adding a contrasting cuff onto the bottom of a curtain, or sewing up pillowcases) just to name a few.

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  Step 2

  Place your fabric right sides together.

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  Step 3

  Pin.

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  Step 4

  Sew a 5/8" seam.

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  Step 5

  Here is the resulting, regular, unfinished seam.

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  Step 6

  And this is what our regular, unfinished, seam looks like from the outside of your project.

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  Step 7

  The French Seam: This seam is great for sheer, lightweight fabrics such as voile, lawn, silks and lace. This is, hands down, the finishing seam I use the most. I use it to finish the majority of the dresses and blouses I make. I also finish all the pillowcases I sell on my Etsy store will french seams so that they don't unravel after being washed.

  We're going to start with wrong sides together. If that seems weird to you, you're right, it is weird, but I promise I'm not leading you astray. Trust me!

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  Step 8

  Pin.

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  Step 9

  Sew a 3/8" seam.

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  Step 10

  Then we have something that looks like this. The picture below has both seam allowances pushed to one side.

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  Step 11

  We're then going to trim both of the seam allowance to just under 1/4".

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  Step 12

  ...

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  Step 13

  Then, fold the fabric right sides together.

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  Step 14

  ...

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  Step 15

  Press.

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  Step 16

  Pin.

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  Step 17

  Sew again, this time with a 1/4" seam allowance.

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  Step 18

  Ta da! Now you have encased the original seam allowance inside the second seam. Here is the seam from the back. No raw edges, woo!

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  Step 19

  The french seam is incredibly neat on the inside and doesn't change the external appearance of your project at all.

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  Step 20

  2. The Clean Finished Seam
  This seam is excellent for light to medium weight fabrics. Because this seam results in visible seams on the outside of your garment, it is good to use for garments such as unlined jackets and skirts where top-stitching can add be a cute detail. It can, of course, be used for plenty of other projects as well.

  We'll start with right sides together.

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  Step 21

  Pin.

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  Step 22

  Sew with 5/8" seam allowance.

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  Step 23

  Press seam allowance open.

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  Step 24

  Down each edge of the seam allowance, turn under 1/4".

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  Step 25

  It will look like this when both sides have been folded under.

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  Step 26

  Pin.

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  Step 27

  Stitch down each side of the seam allowance, just a hair from the edge.

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  Step 28

  ...

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  Step 29

  Your resulting finished seam will look like this on the inside!

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  Step 30

  And will look like this on the outside!

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  Step 31

  3. The Flat Felled Seam
  This great finishing seam is often used in denim jeans (take a look at the seam on the inside of your leg if you have jeans on. That's a commercial version of what I'm about to show you!). It is also good for sports clothing and kids clothes because it's tough and adds strength to the seams of your garments.

  We'll start with right sides together. Pin.

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  Step 32

  Sew with 5/8" seam allowance.

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  Step 33

  Press open seam allowance.

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  Step 34

  Trim one side of the seam allowance to just under 1/4".

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  Step 35

  ...

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  Step 36

  On the other side of the seam allowance, fold over 1/4".

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  Step 37

  Press.

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  Step 38

  Then, fold the folded edge over the trimmed 1/4" seam allowance.

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  Step 39

  ...

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  Step 40

  Pin.

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  Step 41

  Stitch down the edge of the folded-over seam allowance, just a hair from the edge.

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  Step 42

  And your resulting finished Flat Felled seam will look like this on the inside.

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  Step 43

  And will look like this on the outside.

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  Step 44

  ...

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  Step 45

  4. The Bias Bound Seam
  This finishing seam looks so darn cute when done in contrasting bias tape. It's perfect for unlined coats, skirts and jackets. It is best for medium and medium/heavy weight fabrics.

  Start with right sides together. Pin.

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  Step 46

  Sew with a 5/8" seam allowance.

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  Step 47

  Iron out seam allowance.

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  Step 48

  Cut a piece of bias tape 1/2 longer than your seam. Fold out right edge of bias tape and press.

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  Step 49

  Place your fabric right sides together, leaving one seam allowance out.

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  Step 50

  Place your bias tape over the seam allowance, long edges even. Pin.

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  Step 51

  ...

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  Step 52

  Stitch in the "ditch" left by the fold of the bias tape (that's what my scissor tips are pointing to). You'll be stitching through two layers: one layer of bias tape, and one layer of seam allowance.

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  Step 53

  Your seam should look something like this.

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  Step 54

  Fold bias tape over the seam you just made.

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  Step 55

  Flip the whole thing over. Now you'll be looking at the opened seam allowance. Your main fabric pieces are still right sides together.

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  Step 56

  ...

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  Step 57

  Fold half of the bias tape over the raw edge of your seam allowance.

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  Step 58

  Iron and pin.

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  Step 59

  Stitch along the edge of the bias tape (the edge towards the original seam).

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  Step 60

  When it's all finished, one of your finished seam allowances will look like this!

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  Step 61

  Repeat on the other seam allowance and then both finished seams will look like this on the inside!

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  Step 62

  This finished seam doesn't make any changes to the external appearance of the project. Keep in mind that this creates a bit of bulk, and is not suitable for very lightweight or sheer fabrics because the seam finished would create 'lines' that you could see from the outside.

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  Step 63

  5. The Self Bound Seam
  I'll be honest. This is not my favorite finishing seam. It's a bit tedious, but it does make an excellent finish on lightweight fabrics that don't ravel easily.

  Start with right sides together.

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  Step 64

  Stitch a 5/8" seam.

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  Step 65

  Press open seam allowance.

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  Step 66

  Trim one side of the seam allowance to 1/8".

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  Step 67

  ...

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  Step 68

  Fold over the edge of the other side of the seam allowance 1/4" and press.

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  Step 69

  Tuck the 1/8" seam allowance into the folded over seam allowance.

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  Step 70

  Fold the folded edge over the 1/8" piece again and press. (Lots of folding goin' on, eh?)

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  Step 71

  ...

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  Step 72

  Push the main fabric pieces to one side and stitch along the edge of the folded seam allowance that is closer to the original seam.

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  Step 73

  When you're done, it should look like this! You'll have two rows of stitching very close to one another.

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  Step 74

  This is what it looks like with the main fabric pieces folded out.

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  Step 75

  And this is what it looks like on the outside. This seam doesn't change the outside appearance.

Comments

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girlcousin · Battle Ground, Indiana, US · 1 project 22nd February 2016

Terrific tutorial! Sent it to a knitting friend of mine who sews little purses with lots of pockets.

Palindrome Dry Goods · 7 projects 22nd February 2016

Thank you for sharing! I'm so glad you found it helpful, and I hope your friend does too.

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AlterEgo Designs · Cleveland, Ohio, US · 31 projects 19th February 2016

This is a great tutorial! Your instructions are very clear, and the pictures are sure to be a big help. Much better than any of the textbooks we used in school. I'm saving this to pass along for the next time someone asks me for sewing help.

Palindrome Dry Goods · 7 projects 22nd February 2016

Haha oh gosh, thank you! That is quite a compliment. Thank you for sharing and for commenting!

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