Luxurious lace and sheer sophistication get their star turn at D & G
Before I squeeze in my ode to Dolce & Gabbana’s massive star print trend of the past season, like an expertly yet painstakingly harvested gourmet orange smoothie, let's kick it off with a little inspirational background:
Thinking of Dolce & Gabbana’s starry take on their trademark sartorial sex appeal, it seems reminiscent of the theatrical whimsy of early 20th century fashion, from the eloquent flair of Erté’s illustrations to the theatrical oeuvres of couturier Paul Poiret.
Think of couture’s founding masters and you may well remind yourself of Christian Dior and Coco Chanel, but the slightly lesser known Poiret was the most influential designer of the pre-war period. How prophetical he was in using the influence of fashion to project his image of shock and theatrical panache, noting that “all fashion ends in excess.” He gave us endlessly-renewing fads of harem pants (a recently-revived fashion essential), the spectacle of the outré fashion show and the commercial addition of perfume to a fashion house’s repertoire. In short, and in no uncertain terms, fashion’s first branding genius, you might almost say he was ahead of his time – and how times have changed…
From designer to celebrity and lucrative branding empire – in that order, and not the other way round – those were the days! Fashion's modern pastiche is never a direct translation of the glorious past but perhaps the 1920s references were more than mere coincidence, with Great Gatsby chic going on to be such a directional trend for the current season. For that reason I'm still as proud of the project and think it to be as relevant now as it was six months ago. If you agree with me and fancy getting the star and lace-print look, read on...
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