Cut Out + Keep

Rosary Links

Making rosary links for a necklace

https://www.cutoutandkeep.net/projects/rosary-links • Posted by GMC Group

Rosary links are made with wrapped loops either side of the bead. The beads shown in images A and B are 8–10mm diameter rounds set on 18AWG (1mm) wire. 24–20AWG (0.6–0.8mm) wire can be used for smaller, more delicate, beads. There is also the option of making swirly curls at the end of each wrapped loop either side of the bead, as in image B. Make the swirly curls using 3⁄8in (1cm) lengths of the wire tails at the end of the wrapped loops. NOTE: The wire you use may depend on the size of the drill hole through the bead. Tip I prefer to work with longer lengths of wrapping wire so I don’t run out along weave lengths. If you want to work with shorter lengths, try to spot a point where you can add in new wire, tucking in the old end and adding in new where there is the least disruption to what you are trying to do.

You will need

Project Budget
Cheap

Time

0 h 45

Difficulty

Nice & Simple
Medium 116623 2f2017 07 14 150457 bt1a Medium 116623 2f2017 07 14 150500 bt1b

Description

Rosary links are made with wrapped loops either side of the bead. The beads shown in images A and B are 8–10mm diameter rounds set on 18AWG (1mm) wire. 24–20AWG (0.6–0.8mm) wire can be used for smaller, more delicate, beads. There is also the option of making swirly curls at the end of each wrapped loop either side of the bead, as in image B. Make the swirly curls using 3⁄8in (1cm) lengths of the wire tails at the end of the wrapped loops. NOTE: The wire you use may depend on the size of the drill hole through the bead. Tip I prefer to work with longer lengths of wrapping wire so I don’t run out along weave lengths. If you want to work with shorter lengths, try to spot a point where you can add in new wire, tucking in the old end and adding in new where there is the least disruption to what you are trying to do.

Instructions

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    To make a wrapped loop necklace link Take a 4–43⁄4in (10–12cm) length of 18AWG (1mm) wire and loop it as shown about 1 3⁄8in (3.5cm) from one end of the wire, into a round shape using your round-nose pliers.

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    Grip nearer the base of the loop with chain-nosed pliers (if possible with the pliers placed flat across the whole loop). Bend the shorter wire tail to the side where it crosses under the longer length 
of wire. Straighten the longer length of wire, bending it slightly at the crossing point. Pull the shorter wire tail to wrap it around the longer wire length at the crossing point so that it points in the opposite direction.

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    Thread a bead onto the longer length of wire so that it lies tight against the first loop you made. Make a loop at the other side of the bead using chain-nosed pliers, adjusting the loop so that there is 
no “play” or gap between the loops and the bead. Tip Try to make sure the loops are all the same size by making them at the same point on your chain-nosed pliers.

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    Grip each loop with chain-nosed pliers and wrap the wire tails around the base of the loop with your fingers or another set of pliers. You have a few options now: • You can cut the wire tail with flush cutters and press the ends down around the wrap to press the cut ends in so they don’t catch on skin or clothing. • You can wrap the wire tails over to the other side of the bead. • You can make a swirl curl detail over the bead, as follows:


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    Cut the wire tails to 3⁄8–5⁄8in (10–15mm) depending on the size of curl you want to make over the bead or the size of bead you are working with.

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    Spiral the wire tails. Press the wire tails down over the bead using your fingers or the rubber ends of your pliers. Your little link is finished. Make more in the same way, but make sure you add on one link to the next before you close that loop.

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    Making the loop end of the clasp The loop end of the clasp is made in the same way as the links except with a much larger loop on the loop side. Take a 6in (15cm) length of 20–18AWG (0.8–1mm) wire and loop it near one end of the wire into a teardrop shape. Use your fingers or a pencil-sized mandrel to make a more circular loop.

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    Bend the shorter wire tail to the side where it crosses over the longer length of wire. Straighten the longer length of wire, bending it slightly at the crossing point.

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    Grip the base of the loop with chain-nosed pliers and pull the wire tail to wrap it once around the longer wire length at the crossing point in a 180-degree loop.

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    At this stage you can alter the shape of your loops using the chain-nosed pliers. You can make the loop teardrop shaped, angular, or completely circular by placing the loop around a ring mandrel to shape the wire.

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    Hammer the large loop on a steel block to create a flat, reflective surface.

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    Thread a bead onto the long length of wire so it sits tight against the large loop. Make a smaller loop on the other side of the bead as in Step 4. Grip the smaller loop with your chain-nosed pliers and pull the wire tail around the top of the bead to make a spiral over the end of the bead around the closed loop.

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    Cut the wire tail at this end to 3⁄8–5⁄8in (10–15mm). Grip the larger teardrop-shaped loop with your chain-nosed pliers near the base of the loop and across both sides of the loop, spiraling the wire end around and along the loop for a few wraps (you can also wind down over the bead; it is your choice).

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    Cut the wire tail at the large loop end to 5⁄8–13⁄16in (15–20mm).

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    Spiral the wire tails: Press the spiral at the small loop end over the bead and the spiral at the 
larger loop end over the base ofthe loop.

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    Making the hook end of the clasp Take a 6in (15cm) length of 18AWG (1mm) wire and make a small spiral at one end.

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    Shape this end of the wire into a shepherd’s crook shape. You can wrap the wire around a mandrel, bale-making pliers, or a round pen. Make a slight bend at the base of the hook leaving a straight wire tail (see arrow in image above).

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    Hammer only the “crook” end, leaving the straight wire tail unhammered.

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    Thread a bead onto the straight wire up to the base of the crook and the edge of the hammered 
wire section. Make a loop at the other side of the bead using round-nosed pliers.

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    Make a closed wrap loop (see page 21). Pass the wire tail over and around the bead to wrap the wire tail at the base of the hook end a few times, leaving a 5⁄8–13⁄16in (15–20mm) wire tail. NOTE: The wrap around the bead may cause the bead to travel up the hook end a little. Hold the bead in place as you make this wrap; once you have a few coils around the base of the hook the bead will be held in place.

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    Curl the wire tail and press into place over the base of the hook end.

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    Your clasp is now finished. You can join it to the rest of your necklace with a few jumprings or by slipping it onto a necklace link before you wrap and close the loop. Tip If the wire is difficult to thread through spaces, use your pliers to help grab the wire. Trim the tip if it looks ragged to make it thread through more easily.