Steamy, punky version of a burlesque icon
some days i just don´t wanna walk around with a striped ancient looking bustle skirt :) so i created a skirt/girdle with a modern punk twist for just everyday. maybe it doesn´t look like a bustle skirt, but it really was inspired by it (i sneaked around the site and got lost in the bustle skirt by becca)
The skirt is higher than the "normal, pelvis-length" style but not highwaisted and it´s pencil-shaped.
i added four suspenders for attaching stockings or just let them hang down for decoration.
The bustles have an organic shape and are a bit distressed. i think i will add more holes to the upper piece...
i didn´t ruffle the bustle parts too much and tried to make it look a bit messy (i think i suck in making messy things, i have some kind of accuracy addiction on my clothes).
The fabrics are black stretch fabric for the skirt to have a snugly fit and ease, batiste for two of the bustles because it frays, is easy to distress and streaming in the wind ;) the cream one i dyed with tea, one bustle is made of a ruffle tubular jersey because i like that :)
you can use whatever you want, i think lace would be nice or many different fabric scraps sewn together to form a bustle...maybe i will attach some more in future...
i clicked "almost nothing" at the price, because i had all things needed at home, but all fabrics weren´t that expensive, batiste can be cheap and the black stretch, the ruffle tubular jersey and the zipper were from the bargain bin :) maybe suspenders are a bit pricey...
i started with a skirt pattern that i changed a bit.
*lower the waistline (optional)
*go some cm inwards at the hem for a pencilskirt shape.
i made a pdf for a basic skirt pattern plus explanations a while ago for a friend, if you wanna have it, just write me a pm with your email-address!!
if you have your pattern, cut out
*2 front parts
*1 back part on fold
*2 front part facing
*1 back piece facing on fold
seam allowance: 1cm at all edges, 4cm hem
if you want a nice finish inside, finish all side seams with a serger.
i recommend marking the hem with tiny notches in the seam allowance and iron the fold before sewing the pieces together.
sew the side and dividing seams of the skirt and sew on/insert the zipper at the center front.
for inserting the zipper, place the zipper on the right side of the skirt, the zipper band and the edge of the centre front are aligned. sew with a zipper foot. and repeat this with the other side of the zipper. for making sure that both sides are equal, close the zipper after sewing one side and then pin it to the other.
do not include the hem in the seam for the zipper!
sew the side seams of the facing and finish the lower edge with a serger.
now the "bustles":
i pulled my dolly in the skirt, pinned/draped a roughly cut piece of fabric to it and cut it as i wanted.
repeat that two times (if you want three bustles)
for the bustle made of the ruffle fabric, i just cut a wide strip of it and flipped in the sides.
just pin your bustles to the skirt, if you don´t want it that messy you can ruffle the upper edges (by hand or machine). i gathered by hand.
the suspenders i made myself too, because i only found clips for replacing a broken or lost one (so, no elastic strap attached)
i bought the clips and two sets of bra straps, opened the strap, removed that pastic loop, inserted the clip and closed it with some stitches.
simply sew it on the skirt where you want them (maybe you should have a look that they´re aligned)
if you have the luxury to have attachable bra straps/suspenders you can sew tiny loops out of satin ribbon or something to the hem. so, you´ll be able to remove them when you need tights instead of stockings!
do the sewing only on the seam allowance for the hem!