Knit Hot Water Bottle

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• Step 1

  Front
  Lower rib
  Using yarn A and 3.5mm (no UK equivalent, US 4) needles, cast on 53 sts.
  Row 1: (K1, P1) to the last st, K1.
  Row 2: (P1, K1) to the last st, P1.
  Rows 3–20: rep rows 1 and 2 nine times more, increasing 1 st at the end of the last row (do this by Pfb in the last st) (54 sts). 
Continue with Main body.

• Step 2

  Main body
  Change to 3.25mm (UK 10, US 3) needles. Work 74 rows in st st, placing a stitch marker on the 16th st of row 27.

• Step 3

  Neck shaping
  Row 75: K1, skpo, K to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1 (52 sts).
  Row 76: P.
  Rows 77–78: rep rows 75 and 76 once more (50 sts).
  Row 79: K1, skpo, (2 sts on right-hand needle) lift the second stitch on the right needle over the first stitch to cast off 1 stitch then cast off 4 more sts, K to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1 (43 sts).

  Row 79: K1, skpo, (2 sts on right-hand needle) lift the second stitch on the right needle over the first stitch to cast off 1 stitch then cast off 4 more sts, K to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1 (43 sts).
  Row 80: cast off 5 sts, P to the end (38 sts).
  Row 81: cast off 3 sts, K to the end (35 sts).
  Row 82: cast off 3 sts, P to the end (32 sts).
  Rows 83–84: rep rows 81 and 82 once more, decreasing 1 st at the end of row 84 (do this by P2tog over the last 2 sts) (25 sts).
  Change to 3.5mm (no UK equivalent, US 4) needles and continue with Neck rib.

• Step 4

  Neck rib
  Row 1: (K1, P1) to the last st, K1.
  Row 2: (P1, K1) to the last st, P1.
  Rows 3–24: rep rows 1 and 2 eleven times more (or until long enough to cover neck of hot water bottle). Cast off in rib, leaving a long tail of yarn.

• Step 5

  Back
  Follow all instructions as given for Front, omitting the 
stitch marker.

• 

  Step 6

  Duplicate stitch
  Using the chart below, use duplicate stitch (or Swiss darning) to stitch the motif onto the stocking (stockinette) stitch base, using yarn B and yarn C. Start at the marked stitch (on row 27).
  Begin at the bottom right corner of the chart and work 
in rows.

• 

  Step 7

  To finish
  Spray block pieces and leave to dry completely. Sew the side seams using mattress stitch and place on hot water bottle.

  Row 80: cast off 5 sts, P to the end (38 sts).
  Row 81: cast off 3 sts, K to the end (35 sts).
  Row 82: cast off 3 sts, P to the end (32 sts).
  Rows 83–84: rep rows 81 and 82 once more, decreasing 1 st at the end of row 84 (do this by P2tog over the last 2 sts) (25 sts).
  Change to 3.5mm (no UK equivalent, US 4) needles and continue with Neck rib.

• Step 8

  Neck rib
  Row 1: (K1, P1) to the last st, K1.
  Row 2: (P1, K1) to the last st, P1.
  Rows 3–24: rep rows 1 and 2 eleven times more (or until long enough to cover neck of hot water bottle). Cast off in rib, leaving a long tail of yarn.

  Back
  Follow all instructions as given for Front, omitting the 
stitch marker.

  Duplicate stitch
  Using the chart below, use duplicate stitch (or Swiss darning) to stitch the motif onto the stocking (stockinette) stitch base, using yarn B and yarn C. Start at the marked stitch (on row 27).
  Begin at the bottom right corner of the chart and work 
in rows.

  To finish
  Spray block pieces and leave to dry completely. Sew the side seams using mattress stitch and place on hot water bottle.

• 

  Step 9

  Duplicate Stitch
  Duplicate stitch (also known as Swiss darning) allows you to add small areas of colour to your knitting, duplicating the original stitches. It creates a slightly raised effect.

  1 Thread your needle with a long piece of the contrast yarn and bring it up through the point of the ‘V’ of the first stitch being duplicated.

  2 Take the needle under the ‘V’ of the stitch above it.

  3 Take the needle back through the point of the ‘V’ being worked. One stitch has been duplicated.

  4 Repeat across the row for each area of colour, following any charts provided.

• Step 10

  Blocking
  Blocking describes the method of stretching, shaping and moulding a finished piece of knitting or crochet work using some form of water. It gives your work a much neater and more professional finish as it relaxes the fibres and evens out your stitches.
  Blocking can also increase the size of your work to the correct size (but it cannot make your work smaller); mould your designs to a specific shape; ‘open up’ the designs in lacy crochet work to emphasise the stitches and patterns; help curled edges lie flat and improve the overall drape of your fabric.
  There are three main methods of blocking: spray blocking, steam blocking and wet blocking, each of which is described below.

• Step 11

  What tools and equipment do I need?

  • rust-proof pins with glass heads (plastic heads can melt if using the steam method of blocking), or blocking pins
  • blocking wires (optional). These can be inserted along the edges of your work to keep them straight and are often used when blocking shawls
  • a tape measure
  • a spray bottle filled with cold water, or a steam iron (or handheld steamer), or a basin filled with cold water
  • a towel
  • a flat, padded surface that is large enough to hold a piece of knitting. This could be a purpose-made folding blocking board, interlocking foam pieces, an ironing board or even a carpet covered with plastic and a towel.

• Step 12

  Spray blocking
  1 Spray your work with cold water until it is damp but not completely saturated.
  2 Using rust-proof glass-headed pins or blocking pins, pin out your knitted pieces onto a blocking board to the dimensions specified in your pattern. Gently ease the fabric into place, making sure that you do not distort the stitches. Make sure edges are straight or curved, as required.
  3 Once your work is completely dry, remove the pins.
  4 If the desired result is not achieved, repeat steps 1–3 again.

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