Cut Out + Keep

How To Sew Set-In Sleeves

Sewing Set-In Sleeves While Sewing a Garment

https://www.cutoutandkeep.net/projects/how-to-sew-set-in-sleeves • Posted by Rosie_Wednesday

A set-in sleeve is sewn into a garment after the shoulder seams and side seams have been sewn. You'll be fitting a curved sleeve into a flatter area, which allows the sleeve to curve over your shoulder and fall down your arm. This requires easing, a process of bringing the two edges of fabric together without any puckers or gathers.

You will need

Project Budget
Free

Time

0 h 45

Difficulty

So-so
Medium 101196 2f2014 04 24 124505 dscf0508

Description

A set-in sleeve is sewn into a garment after the shoulder seams and side seams have been sewn. You'll be fitting a curved sleeve into a flatter area, which allows the sleeve to curve over your shoulder and fall down your arm. This requires easing, a process of bringing the two edges of fabric together without any puckers or gathers.

Instructions

  1. Small 101196 2f2014 04 24 124827 basting text

    First up, stitch two rows of basting stitches between the notches on your sleeves, inside the seam allowance. This will help you when you're easing the sleeve into the armscye (armhole). You can already see it's folding up a bit, just laying on the table.

  2. Small 101196 2f2014 04 24 124856 sleeve%2bseam text

    Now pin, stitch, press, and finish the sleeve seam.

  3. Small 101196 2f2014 04 24 125044 sleeve%2bease text

    Pin the sleeve into the armscye (armhole). You want to hit all the main points before you begin the easing process. So pin, - The top of the sleeve cap to match the shoulder seam. Make sure to pin your shoulder seam flaps down so those stay open. - The side seam to the sleeve seam, lining up the seams so you get a nice tidy line. - The notches. Then, pull on the bobbin threads of your basting stitches to ease the rest of the sleeve into the armscye. When you're done pinning, you'll see a bit of wobbliness on the sleeve side. That's good, as long as you don't have folds in your fabric that you'll be stitching over.

  4. Small 101196 2f2014 04 24 125111 sleeve%2bpress text

    Stitch the sleeve seam. Check to make sure that you didn't get any puckers or folds. If you do have some folds in your fabric, grab your trusty seam ripper and give it another go! Once you've ensured there's no folds in your seam, press the seam allowance towards the bodice.

  5. Small 101196 2f2014 04 24 125128 dscf0508

    Serge the sleeve seam. Repeat the whole process for your other sleeve, and then admire your handiwork!