https://www.cutoutandkeep.net/projects/how-to-sew-a-double-piped-pocket • Posted by So
for my journeyman´s examination in custom tailoring i practice these pockets a lot and one day i thought of sharing how to do them. i think they are handy if you want a little pocket for a hanky or some money. i recommend to do a sample in a scrap!! usually, the first ones are quite... unlovely, but don´t give up!! Variation: double piped pocket with flap -see step 14-
for my journeyman´s examination in custom tailoring i practice these pockets a lot and one day i thought of sharing how to do them. i think they are handy if you want a little pocket for a hanky or some money. i recommend to do a sample in a scrap!! usually, the first ones are quite... unlovely, but don´t give up!! Variation: double piped pocket with flap -see step 14-
choose the position for the pocket and mark it with a chalk line. draw two lines each with 1cm distance to the first line. decide how long you want the pocket and mark the ends.
cut out a square which is 4cm x your pocket length + 2cm out of your interling. iron it on the backside of your pocket position (the interlining should be overlapping 1cm at every edge)
cut out: piping: 2 strips out of fabric: 6cm x your pocket length + 4cm mirror: 1 square out of fabric: your pocket length + 4cm x approx 16cm (depends on how deep you want the pocket bag) pocket bag: 1 square out of lining: your pocket length + 4cm x approx 12cm
fold over the strips lengthwise and iron them.
lay one piping with fold up on the upper line of your marks. there are 2cm seam allowance on every side. sew on the piping at 0.5cm from fold. the same with the lower mark.
pull the sewn on piping a bit out of your way so you can see your first marked line in the middle of them. cut the line up to 1cm from the end of pocket. the last cm you cut like a triangle to the edges of the seams you just made.
fold over the piping and baste together. Pay attention that the piping is parallel to each other and not displaced. Iron it flat from the backside.
sew along the piping and include the little triangles.
grab your fabric square and sew it on the upper edge of the upper piping (1cm distance)
grab your square of lining and position it to the lower edge of the lower strip. sew it, fold it over, iron it (and sew again with 2mm distance to the fold (optional)).
adjust the lengths of lining and fabric.
mark the pocket bag and sew it starting at the top of the piping and end at the other side. To avoid fluff in the edges of the pocket, round them (that´s why there´s tape in the picture). trim the edges at the sides to the same length. You can now trim them with overlock stitching, pinking shears etc.
fold over the fabric in which you inserted the pocket and sew along through all layers) the seam you made for the first piping.
to make a double piped pocket with flap: also cut one square out of fabric: your pocket length + 2cm x your pocket flap width and one square out of lining: your pocket length + 1.6cm!! x your pocket flap width make the pocket until step 12. iron on interlining on the fabric square. sew fabric and lining together right side on right side. trim the edges and turn it over. iron it that the fabric is overlapping the lining a bit. slide it between the piping of your pocket and sink-stitch along the upper edge of the pocket (from the right side). you have to do this step before you do step 13!!!!
some advices: * wool fabrics are more merciful than e.g. a batiste because wool is more shapeable. * if your fabric has a pattern like glencheck or stripes, cut the strips for the piping diagonally to the pattern. it´s easier because you don´t have to look for matching stripes and you can see your seams better. *cutting the triangles needs a bit of practice so you get the feeling where and how long you can cut. you can always cut more but not less. and i recommend to stop cutting at the inside of the seam and not directly next to it.