the industrial technique to sew these pockets
for my journeyman´s examination in custom tailoring i practice these pockets a lot and one day i thought of sharing how to do them. i think they are handy if you want a little pocket for a hanky or some money.
i recommend to do a sample in a scrap!! usually, the first ones are quite... unlovely, but don´t give up!!
Variation: double piped pocket with flap -see step 14-
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piping: 2 strips out of fabric:
6cm x your pocket length + 4cm
mirror: 1 square out of fabric:
your pocket length + 4cm x approx 16cm (depends on how deep you want the pocket bag)
pocket bag: 1 square out of lining: your pocket length + 4cm x approx 12cm
mark the pocket bag and sew it starting at the top of the piping and end at the other side.
To avoid fluff in the edges of the pocket, round them (that´s why there´s tape in the picture).
trim the edges at the sides to the same length. You can now trim them with overlock stitching, pinking shears etc.
to make a double piped pocket with flap:
also cut one square out of fabric: your pocket length + 2cm x your pocket flap width
and one square out of lining:
your pocket length + 1.6cm!! x your pocket flap width
make the pocket until step 12.
iron on interlining on the fabric square.
sew fabric and lining together right side on right side. trim the edges and turn it over. iron it that the fabric is overlapping the lining a bit. slide it between the piping of your pocket and sink-stitch along the upper edge of the pocket (from the right side).
you have to do this step before you do step 13!!!!
* wool fabrics are more merciful than e.g. a batiste because wool is more shapeable.
* if your fabric has a pattern like glencheck or stripes, cut the strips for the piping diagonally to the pattern. it´s easier because you don´t have to look for matching stripes and you can see your seams better.
*cutting the triangles needs a bit of practice so you get the feeling where and how long you can cut. you can always cut more but not less. and i recommend to stop cutting at the inside of the seam and not directly next to it.