This is a really glitzy project! I managed to get hold of
a pair of 1950s pants with the mid-cut shape I was looking for and made my own pattern from them.
This project is more advanced than most of the others in this book. It uses a two-part pattern, comprising the shorts cut as a pair and the gusset piece, as opposed to the usual four-part pattern. I have adapted the pattern so that there are
no side seams to ruin the smooth finish and fit.
You can buy sequinned jersey fabric from specialist fabric stores (see Suppliers, page 127). You will need a ballpoint needle on your sewing machine for this project,
as it uses stretch fabrics.
Take 3⁄4-in. (2-cm) seam allowances throughout, unless otherwise stated.
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You Will Need
Pin the pattern pieces to the sequinned fabric, following the grain lines marked on the pattern. Cut out two hot pants sides and one gusset piece.
On each side of the sequinned fabric, there will be a section of jersey fabric that is free of sequins. Following the grain, cut a strip 3⁄4 in. (2 cm) wide from this fabric and bind the center front and center back seams—fold both sides under and pin, then, using a ballpoint needle and a narrow zigzag stitch, machine stitch the binding in place. Press the bound seams
to one side.
Cut a length of elastic about 3⁄4 in. (2 cm) shorter than the waist of the hot pants, plus a little extra for an overlap. Pin
the elastic to one side of the waistband, then stretch it out across the front of the pants so that the halfway point on the elastic meets the other side of the waistband. Pin again, then stretch the remaining elastic around the back of the pants and pin. Pull the elastic very slightly, then machine stitch, using a narrow zigzag stitch.
Measure the waist and cut
a strip 1 in. (2.5 cm) longer than this and 2 in. (5 cm) wide across the more visible weave of the spandex fabric; when it is cut in this way, spandex has a little less stretch and is easier to sew.
Cut two 16-in. (40-cm) lengths of ribbon for the hanging loops. Fold each one in half lengthwise and pin in place on the wrong side of the pants, at the sides.
ith right sides together, pin the spandex strip to the pants, just under the elastic. Taking a 3⁄8-in. (1-cm seam), machine stitch the spandex in place,
using a narrow zigzag stitch and overlapping the ends of the spandex at the back of the garment. Trim off any excess sequinned fabric at the top of the pants for smoothness and turn the spandex waistband to the inside. Roll the raw edge of the spandex under and pin in place from the outside. Straight stitch the spandex in place, stitching close to the first line of stitching.
Turn up a 3⁄4-in. (2-cm) hem on the legs of the hot pants and press. Pin and machine stitch from the inside, using a wide zigzag stitch to cover any rough edges. Press firmly, using steam around the back hem to ease
in any areas that may have stretched during stitching.
Zigzag stitch the jersey
binding in place
WS of fabric
Roll the raw edge of the spandex under