Make your own books, old style.
This is my second favorite method of bookbinding.
# Plus points include: It's swisher, or "more professional"
# More durable
# Good recycling opportunities (game boards for the cover, etc)
And minus point:
# I just like the other method; it's kind of kooky/whathaveyou.
I'll get round to doing a tutorial of method numero uno at some point :)
- Conner W. added Hardback Bookbinding to book crafts 15 Jul 16:21
- Rachael H. added Hardback Bookbinding to Books/Journals 16 Dec 17:09
- bomont favorited Hardback Bookbinding 15 Nov 07:03
- sfloyd1 added Hardback Bookbinding to to make 06 Sep 02:37
- sfloyd1 favorited Hardback Bookbinding 06 Sep 02:30
- dee M. favorited Hardback Bookbinding 02 Jun 12:50
- Jenn L. added Hardback Bookbinding to bookmaking 14 Nov 06:07
- BlauPiepmatz favorited Hardback Bookbinding 20 Aug 21:07
- Jen O. favorited Hardback Bookbinding 18 Aug 17:31
# A heavy duty craft knife, preferably a stanley knife or whatev.
# A ruler. Use "W" shaped metal one, any others will slip or get cut into by your knife.
# A large sewing needle, I use a tapestry needle.
# A compact weight, a small but full cashbox is perfect.
# A brush and pot for your glue(s). I find a cheap kiddy brush works fine, and a paper cup cut down to a dish-shaped thing is good.
# Paper. Use anything you want, really. I tend to make A5 sized sketchbook-type books, so I get 100grm A4 paper. Basically, you want each sheet of paper you have to be twice the size of your finished book.
# Thick card. You can use anything, as I said above, old game boards, record covers, whatev. The thickness is up to you. I like to get A1 greyboard from paperchase and cut it down to size. That's about 2mm thick.
# Scrap of thin card. This doesn't have to be pretty or anything; it's for the spine. Manilla folders or good, as are (I have found) covers from university prospectuses.
# Something to cover your cover. Let your imagination run wild, ahem. I go for anything from cardstock I've stolen from school, old LP covers, er, gift wrap, etc etc. You want it to be fairly durable, but also pretty. And big enough to cover your cover, with about 4-5 inches left top and side to overlap.
# Glue. Hm, I'm no expert on this issue. I've used bostik extra-strong, PVA and a few in between. I find that PVA is easier to work with, easier to clean up when you mess up, and doesn't wrinkle the pages as much. The main downside to bostik, however, is that it gets a little trippy, especially when you leave the cap off. Hm.
# Thread of some kind. It needs to be strong enough that it hold the pages, doesn't snap when you're sewing it, or roughing the book up. It also needs to be thin enough that it doesn't pose a problem when closing the book, and won't get caught up in the holes. I've used embroidery floss, but also just sewing thread, doubled up. Both were fine, but possibly the lazy options, hmpf. Colour is, of course up to you. I use brighter colours, cause I think it's nice when you can see how a book is made, it gives it a little character, but you can match the colour of your pages to camouflage, whichever.
# Ribbon. You need two or three equal(ish) pieces, I'd recommend the non-silky types, for stickiness sake. You can also Have a little extra for spine protectors (labeled 'headbands' here), and a ribbon bookmark.
I think that's everything. Let's go.
Now for some maths.
Please bear in mind that you can totally eyeball this whole part. I'm just a control freak, and it would keep me up at night knowing that my ribbons may not be equally spaced out on the spine of my sketchbook. Call me weird if you will.
Take your ribbon width, times it by two and add on one or two mm for comfort (you'll understand later on, promise).
measure the height of each of your pages. Mine's 21cm (A5, yes?). Take away 1cm.
Take the ribbon-times-two-thing away from your page height (so, 20-3.4 for me)
Then divide the whole lot by three.
I get 5.5cm.
THIS IS THE MAGIC NUMBER.
Now for one of my brilliant diagrams.
it really doesn't help that it's sideways :/
Imagine it's rotated 90 degrees clockwise.
The numbers down the side indicate the teeny cuts we'll be making to sew through in a short while.
The numbers (in cm) are not adding up as we go down- they refer to how far away the current mark is away from the one above it.
Christ on a bike, I'm waffling on.
We start with 0.5cm in from the top.
Then the MAGIC NUMBER comes in, and then the ribbon width, then MAGIC NUMBER, ribbon width, magic number, then (hopefully) that last mark is 0.5cm from the bottom.
Can you see my little marks?
I cut with my hefty stanley blade, but you can also use a pin and blu-tack (pokey-through method), or whatever.
Hold each magazine tight and steady when you do your cuts, mind your fingers, and make sure each cut goes through every sheet.
Do the same for all of your magazines. Fun (y)
When you get to your third magazine, you'll need to start using the kettle stitch.
This is just to make sure the ends match up nice,and to strengthen the spine.
When you come 'out' at the end of your third magazine, simply insert the needle underneath the stitch beneath, as shown, pull though, and set onto the next magazine.
Oh my, this is a really horrible picture.
Imagine this mess is in the middle of the piece of card :/
The smaller double-ended-arrow is the width of the spine of my book.
Then, added onto either side of this, 3-8mm. (I go for around 4)
Score lightly down each of these lines, longways down the page.
Leave to dry under your compact weight for a few hours.