https://www.cutoutandkeep.net/projects/francesca-bag • Posted by Storey Publishing
The F family of patterns transitions (ahem) seamlessly from hat to handbag. The bag is created with four fabrics (here, in velvet and three shades of silk dupioni), all accented with a contrasting binding. For an unencumbered night out, this bag is the ideal accessory: The extra-long, narrow strap allows for hands-free, cross-body wearing. APPROXIMATE DIMENSIONS OF FINISHED BAG 221/2" circumference at widest point; 141/2" tall from bottom point of bag to upper edge when straightened
The F family of patterns transitions (ahem) seamlessly from hat to handbag. The bag is created with four fabrics (here, in velvet and three shades of silk dupioni), all accented with a contrasting binding. For an unencumbered night out, this bag is the ideal accessory: The extra-long, narrow strap allows for hands-free, cross-body wearing. APPROXIMATE DIMENSIONS OF FINISHED BAG 221/2" circumference at widest point; 141/2" tall from bottom point of bag to upper edge when straightened
From fabric 1, pin and cut six F1/F4/F6 Crown/Base pieces on the F1 cutting line. From fabric 2, pin and cut six F1/ F4 Crown pieces, also on the F1 cutting line, and two F6 Body pieces. From fabric 3, pin and cut two F6 Body pieces. From fabric 4, cut a 24" × 11⁄2" strip on the bias for the binding. Cut a 48" × 2" strip on the bias for the strap. Cut two 26" × 11⁄2" strips on the bias for the drawstrings (these may be pieced if necessary to form this length).
To make the bottom of the bag, apply the interfacing to the wrong side of all six Crown pieces cut from fabric 1. Using chalk, transfer the large dot from the pattern piece to the interfacing on each piece.
With right sides together, pin three Crown pieces together, aligning the raw edges. Beginning at the outer edge and ending at the large dot, stitch a 1⁄2" seam.
Press open seam allowances. Stitch the remaining three Crown pieces cut from fabric 1 together in the same manner.
With right sides together, stitch the two completed sections together in a 1⁄2" seam. Press open the seam allowances.
Find the center of the lower edge of the Body pieces (both outer and lining) and mark with a single notch. See illustration below. Apply the interfacing to the wrong side of the two Body pieces cut from fabric 3. Using chalk, transfer the dots from the pattern to the wrong side of the fabric pieces. With right sides together, pin and stitch the double-notched edges of these two Body pieces in a 1⁄2" seam, leaving the space between the dots open. Press open the seam allowances.
Find the center of one of the six bottom pieces on the upper edge and mark. Mark the center of the piece that is opposite also. With right sides together, align these marks with the single notches on the Body and pin them together around the perimeter of the bag.
Stitch a 1⁄2" seam. Press the seam allowance upward toward the Body.
Repeat Step 2 for the six Crown pieces cut from fabric 2, which will form the lining of the bag bottom.
Using chalk or a disappearing fabric ink pen, transfer the casing stitching lines to the right side of the two Body pieces cut from fabric 2.
With right sides together, pin and stitch the double-notched edges of the Body pieces cut from fabric 2 in a 1⁄2" seam, leaving open the space between the casing lines. Press open the seam allowances.
Repeat Step 6 for the lining.
With wrong sides together, place the completed lining into the completed bag, aligning the seams and the center fronts. Pin the bag to the lining around the upper edge and baste 1⁄8" from the edge.
With wrong sides together, lightly press the binding strip in half lengthwise. Fold the outer edges in to meet the center crease and press it in half again.
Open out one long edge of the binding. Press under one short end 1/2". With right sides together, place this pressed-under short end at the center back of the bag and pin.
Continue pinning the binding around the bag until you come to the origination point and overlap 1⁄2". Cut off any remaining binding. Stitch a 3⁄8" seam around the top of bag.
Fold the binding to the wrong side and press. Hand-stitch the lower folded edge of the binding to the bag on the wrong side using an invisible stitch.
With the bag wrong side out, straighten the bag and the lining, aligning the seams as much as possible. Pin the bag and the lining together around the casing. Using thread to match the outer bag and beginning at one side seam, stitch along the upper casing line. Stitch around the lower casing line. Turn the bag right side out.
To form the drawstrings, press the bias piece in half lengthways with wrong sides together. Fold the long edges in to meet the center crease and press again. Pin. Stitch close to the folds. Repeat for the second drawstring.
From the right side, pull a drawstring through the casing opening on one side of the bag using an attached safety pin. When you reach the same opening, pull the drawstring out and align the cut ends. The casing is open on the inside just to help you guide the drawstrings. These will be stitched closed at the end.
With a safety pin attached, pull the remaining drawstring through the opposite side seam opening, keeping the second drawstring on top of the first drawstring. When you reach the opening again, pull the drawstring out and align the cut ends.
On each side, tie the ends of the drawstring together in a knot leaving an approximately 1" tail. Slipstitch the side seam openings in the lining to close.
If necessary, stitch the bias sections together to attain the 48" length for the strap. With right sides together, pin on the diagonal and stitch a 1⁄4" seam. Press open the seam allowances.
When required length is attained, with wrong sides together, lightly press the bias strap piece in half lengthwise. Fold the outer edges in to meet the center crease and press it in half again. Cut a narrow strip of sew-in interfacing the length of the strap. Slide it into the crease. You can use more than one piece if necessary to cover the entire length. Fold the strap over the interfacing and pin. Stitch close to the outer folds. Cut the short ends straight across and press under 1⁄2".
Place the pressed-under short end on the inside of the bag just below the casing, centered over the side seam. Pin and hand-stitch to secure it. Without twisting the strap, stitch the opposite end of the strap to the opposite side of the bag in the same manner.
Pull the knots straight out from the bag simultaneously to cinch the bag closed. Place your hands in the upper bag and push outward to open.
Leave the top of the bag up or fold over the casing to reveal the contrasting lining.