A pencil skirt with a flounce at the back so you can actually walk in it!
As lovely as pencil skirts are, they aren't much use for running up and down the stairs, or carrying boxes of stationery about, so I've added a flounce to back to make it more practical. This tutorial will show you how to draft and sew the flounce using an existing pencil skirt pattern.
- Melissa S. favorited Flounce Skirt 10 Jun 04:09
- Alecia B. favorited Flounce Skirt 01 Jul 01:53
- Lee C. favorited Flounce Skirt 25 Mar 16:08
- Abbey B. favorited Flounce Skirt 15 Jul 10:02
- happyliltoaster favorited Flounce Skirt 17 Jun 01:45
- Carol S. commented on Flounce Skirt 15 Jun 05:54
- Mary T. favorited Flounce Skirt 14 Jun 21:34
- Crafterella featured Flounce Skirt 12 Jun 22:00
- Chudames favorited Flounce Skirt 10 Jun 02:27
- BellaTrixModel favorited Flounce Skirt 09 Jun 09:28
First of all, you'll need a skirt pattern (obviously!). For my first flounce skirt, I used the By Hand London Charlotte skirt pattern, which is a pencil skirt, but any pencil skirt pattern would do (this one is from my skirt block). If the hem is narrower than the hips, then extend the hem out at the side seam so it is the same width as the hips.
Take the back skirt pattern piece, and trace it. I appreciate that this is a pain in the bum, but it will be hacked to pieces, so is worth it.
Draw in the seam allowances, and mark a curve as in the photo below. This will be the seam line between the back of the skirt and the flounce. The highest point on my curve (at the centre back seam) is 8 1/2" up from the bottom (this includes the 1/2" hem allowance), and the lowest point is 4" up from the bottom (also including hem allowance). I drew the curve in using a french curve.
Cut along the ruled lines. Initially I left a little "hinge" at the top, but ended up cutting through them completely, because they kept ripping.
The most important part of the next bit is that the longest and shortest pieces are at a 45 degree angle. This is where a grided mat comes in handy. Arrange all the pieces so the top edges are touching each other, as in the photo below. This took a bit of faffing about, and I had to stick each piece down with masking tape because my paper was off a roll, and the pieces kept curling up. You can see how the two rulers are at a right angle, and the longest and shortest pieces butt up to them.
Add a seam allowance to the top of the piece (the shorter curve), and also to the side seam (the shorter straight line). Mark the longer straight line as "Centre Back Fold", and cut this piece out on the fold, the same as the skirt front. When cutting, notch the top of the centre back fold, this helps to line it up to the centre back seam below the zip. When everything is cut out, stay stitch the curve on the top of the flounce, and also the curves on the bottom of the two skirt back pieces.
Here's how I put the skirt back together. I underlined my skirt, so the white thread is my basting thread which is holding the underlining on.
I used a lapped zip, so on the two skirt back pieces, I sewed the centre back seam up to the bottom of where the zip finished, and then inserted the zip. For an invisible zip, put the zip in first, then sew the rest of the centre back seam.