https://www.cutoutandkeep.net/projects/drafting-a-curved-waistband • Posted by Heather B
Curved waistbands are the way to go if you prefer your garments to sit at a point lower than your natural waist. They are also a godsend for us curvy girls who just have a "steep hill" to cover. (Yeah I'm talking about my big round hips) The added shaping in the side seams area means the band will sit flush against your body, instead of standing out the way a straight waistband would. Of course drafting a curved waistband takes several more steps then a drawing a straight rectangle, so some pattern makers will just take the easy way out. Or if you're like me, you might be hacking a pattern into a new garment and need to create your own waistband. Sample garment is Bluegingerdoll's Odette dress, sewn in quilting cotton.
Curved waistbands are the way to go if you prefer your garments to sit at a point lower than your natural waist. They are also a godsend for us curvy girls who just have a "steep hill" to cover. (Yeah I'm talking about my big round hips) The added shaping in the side seams area means the band will sit flush against your body, instead of standing out the way a straight waistband would. Of course drafting a curved waistband takes several more steps then a drawing a straight rectangle, so some pattern makers will just take the easy way out. Or if you're like me, you might be hacking a pattern into a new garment and need to create your own waistband. Sample garment is Bluegingerdoll's Odette dress, sewn in quilting cotton.
If using a dress/skirt with darts, fold the darts closed and pin/tape them in place.
If using a dress/skirt with multiple pieces, then select the CF skirt and side front skirt pieces. Draw in the 5/8" seam allowance on the waist area and sides.
Line the two skirt pieces up so that the seam allowance lines are on top of each other. Pin or tape the two pieces into place.
Lay a piece of trace paper of the waistline area of the skirt.
Trace the waist seam line, not the edge of the pattern.
Place a ruler along the CF of the skirt. Extend that line up into your waistband piece
Lay the ruler along the side seam and extend that line up for the other side of the waistband.
Label the CF side with "Fold".
You can make the waistband what ever width you desire. I usually go with a 2" waistband using the width of the clear ruler to trace the top edge of the band.
The angle on the side seam edge of the waistband looked a little too sharp to me. I checked my waist diameter against it and added around 5/8" to the top edge, redrawing the side seam angle.
Add 5/8" seam allowance to all edges except the CF fold and label the waistband as the Front. Cut out the waistband to finish.
For the back waistband follow the same steps, except do not mark the CB as a fold. Mark it as CB, to avoid confusion, and add seam allowance to that side in the final step.