Another use for dashi
This fluffy, layered, slightly sweet omelette is served in market stalls throughout Japan and has an important place on the table at New Year’s Day celebratory feasts. The omelette is a mixture of eggs, dashi and soy sauce, cooked in a rectangular pan in thin layers that are rolled up over one another. You can find a rectangular pan in a Japanese market, but don’t kill yourself over it – you can still make a fine omelette in a round frying pan.
Makes 1 omelette
© 2020 Ivan Orkin / Ten Speed Press · Reproduced with permission. · Extract taken from Ivan Ramen published by Absolute Press, £20.00, Hardback, Photography © Daniel Krieger
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In a bowl, thoroughly whisk together the eggs, soy sauce, sugar and dashi. Set aside.
Heat a small non-stick frying pan (preferably a rectangular one) over medium-low heat and spray with oil. Pour in just enough egg mixture to coat the bottom of the pan. When the egg is half set, use a rubber spatula or a pair of chopsticks to begin folding it over on itself, starting at the side closest to you with a fold of about 2cm. Continue folding/rolling until you reach the other side of the pan.
Pour more egg mixture into the empty side of the pan, just enough to cover the bottom. Lift the already-rolled omelette to allow some of the uncooked egg mixture to run underneath. Repeat the rolling procedure, this time beginning with the other end, so you’re rolling the second omelette around the first. Keep the heat low enough that the egg is not becoming crisp and brown, but rather staying soft and creamy.
Repeat step 3 until you’ve used all your egg mixture or the omelette is too big to roll. (This will depend on the size of the pan you’ve chosen.)
Turn the omelette out on to a plate and allow it to cool and set. If you have a bamboo sushi roller, wrap it in clingfilm, roll the omelette inside and exert a little pressure to form the omelette into a perfect rectangular shape. In lieu of a bamboo roller, you could use a piece of heavy-duty aluminium foil.
Once the omelette has cooled to room temperature, cut it into 2cm slices and serve with grated daikon drizzled with soy sauce.