https://www.cutoutandkeep.net/projects/classic-lined-bell-shade • Posted by Ryland Peters & Small
Master this traditional method and breathe new life into a pre-loved lampshade by covering it with some dazzling new fabric. why not Use plain fabric for the outside and a patterned fabric for the lining.
Master this traditional method and breathe new life into a pre-loved lampshade by covering it with some dazzling new fabric. why not Use plain fabric for the outside and a patterned fabric for the lining.
Start by covering the top and bottom rings of the frame, as well as two opposite vertical struts, with bias binding or cotton tape. This is to provide a base to stitch the fabric to. Work out how much bias binding or tape you need by adding twice the circumference of the top and bottom rings and four times the length of one vertical strut. Wind the tape around the top ring where it meets a vertical strut (choose a vertical strut next to the gimbal if yours are positioned this way), overlapping each twist of tape. Cover the top ring, then go down the vertical strut, round the bottom ring and then finish off by covering the facing vertical strut in the same way. Tie off the ends securely and finish off with a couple of tiny stitches to secure.
To work out how much fabric you need, measure one vertical strut and add 4 in. (10 cm), then measure the circumference of the bottom ring and add on 5 in. (12.5 cm). Cut a rectangle of fabric to this size from both the main fabric and the lining fabric.
Fold your fabric in half, short edges and right sides together, and with the straight of grain running vertically, pin the fabric to half the frame at the four corners where the two bound side struts join the top and bottom rings. Gently stretch this double layer of fabric to the sides, and pin it to the two vertical struts, stretching the fabric taut and adjusting the pins as you go.
Pin the fabric to the top and bottom rings in the same way, gently stretching the fabric and adjusting pins to remove any wrinkles until it is perfectly smooth. Keep the sharp ends of pins on the outside so you don’t scratch your fingers.
Once your fabric is smooth, take your tailor’s chalk or soft pencil and mark along the vertical struts between the pins, extending the lines 5⁄8 in. (1.5 cm) beyond the top and bottom rings. Mark the top and bottom rings in the same way. Without removing the fabric from the frame, tack the two layers of fabric together 3/4 in. (2 cm) outside the lines and remove all the pins.
Remove the fabric from the frame and, using a sewing machine, stitch down the vertical tailor’s chalk lines. Trim the vertical seam allowances to 1/4 in. (5 mm) but leave at least 11/4 in. (3 cm) excess outside the top and bottom (horizontal) chalk lines. Press the seams open. Make the lining in exactly the same way.
Turn the outer fabric right side out and slip it over the frame, lining up the side seams with the two bound struts and the horizontal lines with the top and bottom rings. Adjust to fit snugly and pin in place.
Using double thread, stitch the cover to the frame along the top and bottom rings, keeping the stitches to the outside. Trim away excess fabric close to stitching.
If your frame has a gimbal that joins in two places, simply unpick the top of the side seams by 3/4 in. (2 cm) to accommodate the gimbal. If your frame has a gimbal that joins the frame in more than two places, turn the shade upside down and drop the lining in, matching the side seams with the bound struts. With a pencil or tailor’s chalk, mark on your lining where the gimbal struts fall, cut 3/4 in. (2 cm) slits, and finish them off with matching bias binding. Carefully trim away the excess fabric as close to the stitching as you can.
Press the lining and place it inside the frame. Pin securely and stitch it in place in the same way as you did the outer fabric, keeping the stitching to the outside so it is covering the stitching on the outer fabric as much as possible.
Cut your chosen trim to the circumference of each ring, adding 3⁄8 in. (1 cm) for overlap. Using doublestick tape or strong glue, attach to the bottom of the frame to cover all stitching. Repeat with a matching plain trim at the top ring.