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• • • •
Time
30 mins

How to make bound buttonholes with the Patch Technique

The patch technique is basically a patch of fabric folded to form the little "lips" of the bound buttonhole. You might want to practice on a piece of fabric before starting on your real jacket :)
It's not that difficult but you need to be precise and it take time. But it looks so beautiful and has that "couture" touch.

Posted by Pauline A. from Valencia, Valencian Community, Spain • Published See Pauline A.'s 7 projects »
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  • How to sew a buttonhole. Bound Buttonholes - Step 1
    Step 1

    1. Take your button length and add 1 cm (3/8") to it to obtain the box length. The box width is 1 cm as well (3/8") which you divide by a centered line. For example, you have a 4 cm button, your box is going to be 5 cm x 1 cm (2" x 3/8") with a centered horizontal line at 0.5 cm (3/16").
    Report the box on the interfacing and baste around it.

  • How to sew a buttonhole. Bound Buttonholes - Step 2
    Step 2

    2.Cut a patch of fabric about 10 cm x 10 cm (3.9" x 3.9") on the fabric bias. We will trim the edges at the end so don't worry too much about the size.

  • How to sew a buttonhole. Bound Buttonholes - Step 3
    Step 3

    3.With right sides together, pin the patch over the basted box.

  • How to sew a buttonhole. Bound Buttonholes - Step 4
    Step 4

    4.Select a short stitch length on your machine.
    From the wrong side, stitch around the box starting from a long side. You might want to count the stitches you make on the short sides to be sure they are the same length.

  • How to sew a buttonhole. Bound Buttonholes - Step 5
    Step 5

    5.Now you have to be very careful with this step! Cut through both layers (the front and the patch) from the center and cut in V into the angles of the box. You have to cut the closest possible to the stitches without cutting them (if you have small embroidery scissors, it's a perfect time to use them).

  • How to sew a buttonhole. Bound Buttonholes - Step 6
    Step 6

    6.Pass the patch through the open box. Lay it flat and press lightly.

  • How to sew a buttonhole. Bound Buttonholes - Step 7
    Step 7

    7.If the corners don't lay flat, it's because you haven't cut close enough to the stitches during the previous step (fold it back carefully and cut a little bit closer to the stitching line).

  • How to sew a buttonhole. Bound Buttonholes - Step 8
    Step 8

    8.Fold the top of the patch in two so that it forms the first "lip" of the buttonhole. The fold should reach the center of the box. Pin in place.

  • How to sew a buttonhole. Bound Buttonholes - Step 9
    Step 9

    9.Fold the bottom of the patch in two to form the second "lip". Both lips meet in the middle. Pin in place. You can press lightly so it keeps its shape, but be careful that the edges don't show.

  • How to sew a buttonhole. Bound Buttonholes - Step 10
    Step 10

    10.Here is how it looks from the right side!

  • How to sew a buttonhole. Bound Buttonholes - Step 11
    Step 11

    11.On the facing, with a short stitch length, stitch around the buttonhole box and then cut it open, cutting in V in the corners as close as possible to the stitching line.

  • How to sew a buttonhole. Bound Buttonholes - Step 12
    Step 12

    12.Open the rectangle and press it flat. You can stitch it down so all the small trianles stay in place.

  • How to sew a buttonhole. Bound Buttonholes - Step 13
    Step 13

    13.To finish the buttonholes, once the facing is stitched to the main jacket at the end of the construction, you will handstitch the opening to the corresponding bound buttonholes.

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