https://www.cutoutandkeep.net/projects/beautiful-beret • Posted by GMC Group
I started collecting old knitting patterns when I was an art student, regularly finding them in thrift shops for pennies. Consequently, I have a huge collection of them and these vintage patterns serve as a source of inspiration for many of my designs. The beret is one of those fashion items that recurs from decade to decade. I have lots of patterns for knitted hats, including a variety of berets: some are plain, many are in traditional Fair Isle patterns and there are a few Aran hats, too. These patterns are usually far too fussy for today’s stylish knitter, particularly the Aran styles, which often use a wide variety of cable stitches on one hat. So I’ve designed this modern cabled beret with clean lines. Steering well clear of the cream wool of a traditional Aran, it’s knitted in a soft, thick yarn in a flattering and fashionable shade. If you haven’t tackled cable knitting before, try a few sample cables before you start the project – I think you’ll be surprised by how easy and effective this method is. The twisted ‘cable’ element is worked every six or eight rows, with the remaining rows made up of stocking/stockinette and reverse stocking/ stockinette stitch. tension/gauge Using 6.5 mm (US 10½) needles and working in st st with yarn used double, 14 sts and 20 rows = 10 cm (4 in) square FINISHED SIZE 28 cm (11 in) across LEVEL Going further tip You should use circular needles because of the number of stitches not knitted in the round.
I started collecting old knitting patterns when I was an art student, regularly finding them in thrift shops for pennies. Consequently, I have a huge collection of them and these vintage patterns serve as a source of inspiration for many of my designs. The beret is one of those fashion items that recurs from decade to decade. I have lots of patterns for knitted hats, including a variety of berets: some are plain, many are in traditional Fair Isle patterns and there are a few Aran hats, too. These patterns are usually far too fussy for today’s stylish knitter, particularly the Aran styles, which often use a wide variety of cable stitches on one hat. So I’ve designed this modern cabled beret with clean lines. Steering well clear of the cream wool of a traditional Aran, it’s knitted in a soft, thick yarn in a flattering and fashionable shade. If you haven’t tackled cable knitting before, try a few sample cables before you start the project – I think you’ll be surprised by how easy and effective this method is. The twisted ‘cable’ element is worked every six or eight rows, with the remaining rows made up of stocking/stockinette and reverse stocking/ stockinette stitch. tension/gauge Using 6.5 mm (US 10½) needles and working in st st with yarn used double, 14 sts and 20 rows = 10 cm (4 in) square FINISHED SIZE 28 cm (11 in) across LEVEL Going further tip You should use circular needles because of the number of stitches not knitted in the round.
Method With a 4 mm (US 6) circular needle and yarn used double, cast on 77 sts. Row 1 (RS): [K2, P2] to last st, K1. Row 2 (WS): P1, [K2, P2] to end. Rep Rows 1 and 2 twice more. Row 7: As Row 1. Row 8 (WS): P1, [K1, M1, K1, P2] to end. (96 sts) Change to a 6.5 mm (US 10½) circular needle. Row 1 (RS): P2, K6, [P13, K6] to last 12 sts, P12. Row 2 (WS): K12, [P6, K13] to last 8 sts, P6, K2. Row 3: As Row 1. Row 4: K1, M1, K9, M1, K2, [P6, K2, M1, K9, M1, K2] to last 8 sts, P6, K2. (106 sts) Row 5 (RS, cable row): P2, *sl next 3 sts on to dpn and hold at the back, K next 3 sts, K3 sts from dpn, P15*, rep from * to *, ending last rep P14 instead of P15. Row 6 (WS): K14, [P6, K15] to last 8 sts, P6, K2. Row 7 (RS): P2, [K6, P15] rep ending last rep P14 instead of P15. Rows 8, 10, 12 and 14: As Row 6. Rows 9, 11, 13: As Row 7. Row 15 (RS, cable row): P1, *sl next 4 sts on to dpn and hold at the back, K next 4 sts, (K1, M1, K1, M1, K2 from dpn), P13*, rep from * to * to end. Note that all WS rows end with a K1. Row 16 (WS): [K13, P10] to last st, K1. Rows 17 and 19 (RS): P1, [K10, P13] to end. (116 sts) Rows 18 and 20 (WS): As Row 16. Row 21 (RS): P1, K9, ssk, [P11, K2tog, K8, ssk] to last 12 sts, P10, P2tog. (106 sts) Rows 22 and 24: [K11, P10] to last st, K1. Row 23: P1, [K10, P11] to end. Row 25: P1, K9, ssk, [P9, K2tog, K8, ssk] to last 10 sts, P8, P2tog. (96 sts) Rows 26 and 28: [K9, P10] to last st, K1. Row 27: P1, [K10, P9] to end. Row 29 (RS, cable row): P1, *sl 6 sts on to dpn and hold at back, K4, (K2tog, K2tog, K2 from dpn), P9*, rep from * to * to end. (86 sts) Rows 30 and 32: [K9, P8] to last st, K1. Row 31: P1, [K8, P9] to end. Row 33: P1, K7, ssk, [P7, K2tog, K6, ssk] to last 8 sts, P6, P2tog. (76 sts) Row 34: [K7, P8] to last st, K1. Row 35 (RS, cable row): P1, *sl 4 sts on to dpn and hold at back, K4 (K2tog, K2tog from dpn), P7*, rep from * to * to end. (66 sts) Row 36: [K7, P6] to last st, K1. Row 37 (RS): P1, K5, ssk, [P5, K2tog, K4, ssk] to last 6 sts, P4, P2tog. (56 sts) Row 38: [K5, P6] to last st, K1. Row 39: P1, K5, ssk, [P3, K2tog, K4, ssk] to last 4 sts, P2, P2tog. (46 sts) Row 40: [K3, P6] to last st, K1. Row 41: P1, [K3tog tbl, K3tog, P3tog] to end. (16 sts)
To finish Leave an end of 45 cm (17¾ in). With RS facing, thread the yarn through the remaining sts twice and pull up tight. Use the remaining yarn to sew the side seam with mattress stitch from the RS. Sew in any ends.