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Cost
$ $ $ $ $
Difficulty
• • • • •
Time
2h00

Fashion Patternmaking Techniques
Measurements: - Hip circumf. 92+2-4 cm ease.
- Waist circumference 68+1-2 cm ease.
- Hip length 20 cm. - Body rise 24 cm.
- Trouser length 105 cm

Posted by Promopress Published See Promopress's 3 projects » © 2018 Antonio Donnanno / Promopress · Reproduced with permission.
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  • How to make trousers. Basic Trousers With Pleats - Step 1
    Step 1

    Front
    - Draw a rectangle A-B-C-D, with A-B equal
    to ¼ Hip circumference (e.g.: 92:4 = 2 cm)
    and A-C equal to total trouser length
    (e.g.: 105 cm).
    - A-E is the body rise measurement
    (24 cm) - B-F is the same as A-E.
    - E-E1 = 1/16 the Hip circumf. minus 1.5
    cm (e.g.: 92:16 = 5.7 - 1.5 = 4.2 cm).
    - A-G is the Hip length measurement
    (20 cm).
    - Draw G-H (Hip line).
    - E-I is the same as A-E.
    - Draw I-L.
    - E1-X = half of E1-F
    (e.g.: 23+4.2 = 27.2:2 = 13.6 cm)
    - Draw M-N passing through X and
    X1, and write PLEAT LINE and GRAIN.
    - M-O = Knee height (e.g.: 60 cm).
    - M-M2 = 7 cm.
    - Draw the darts with the length and
    width required.
    - B-B1 = 1 cm.
    - X1-L1 = 12 cm.
    - X1-I1 like X1-L1 (THIGH).
    - N-N1 = 1 cm.
    - N-C1 = 11 cm (or as desired).
    - N-D1 like N-C1.
    - Draw C1-N1-D1 (BOTTOM).
    - Draw E1-G-A1 with a curved line.
    - Draw E1-I1-C1 shaping it nicely.
    - Draw B1-A1 shaping it nicely and write
    WAIST.
    - Draw B1-H-F-L1-D1, shaped nicely.

  • Step 2

    Back
    - Draw a rectangle A-B-C-D, with:
    - A-B equal to ¼ Hip circumference + 2 cm
    (e.g.: 92:4 = 23+2 = 25 cm) and A-C equal to total
    trouser length (e.g.: 105 cm).
    - A-E is the body rise measurement (e.g.: 24 cm).
    - B-F is the same as A-E.
    - E-E1 1/16 Hip circumference + 3 cm.
    (e.g.: 92:16 = 5.7+3 = 8.7 cm).
    - E1-E2 = 1 cm.
    - E-E3 = 2 cm.
    - A-G is the Hip length measurement (e.g.: 20 cm).
    - Draw G-H (Hip line).
    - E-I is the same as A-E.
    - Draw I-L.
    - E1-X = half of E1-F (e.g.: cm 26+9 = 35:2 = 17.5).
    - Draw M-N passing through X and write PLEAT LINE
    and GRAIN.
    - M-O Knee height. (e.g.: cm 60).
    - A-A1 = 3.5 cm.
    - A1- A2 = 1-3.5 cm.
    - B-B1 = 1 cm (check waist curves).
    - B1-B2 discard = ½ B1- A2.
    - Draw the darts with desired length and width.
    - X1-L1 = 13 cm.
    - X1-I1 like X1- L1 (THIGH).
    - N-n1 CM 1.
    - N-C1 12 cm (or as desired).
    - N-D1 like N-C1.
    - Draw C1-N1-D1 (BOTTOM).
    - Draw E2-G-A2 with a curved line.
    - Draw E2-I1-C1 shaping it nicely.
    - Draw B1- A2 shaping it nicely and write WAIST.
    - Draw B1-H-F-L1-D1 shaped nicely.

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