Ice Creams, Sorbets and Gelati
One of the very best ice creams we have tasted for a long time was in Capri, at Ferdinando Buonocore’s bakery and gelateria. In fact his ices are one of our two most favourite in the whole of Italy. (The other was Mana flavoured at Alberto Pica’s in Rome.) Buonocore’s speciality is Caprilú which is an almond and lemon gelato. When we were filming in Capri we met him in his laboratoria and at his gelateria. Although he would not divulge the recipe, he did tell us the ingredients, so this is our attempt to duplicate his delicious ice cream. Ah! Capri.
Makes about 750 ml.
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Wash and scrub the skins of the lemons in hot soapy water, rinse well, and then dry. Remove the zest from the lemons with a zester and chill the zest in the fridge. Squeeze one of the lemons and set aside.
Remove the skin from the almonds by putting them in a pan of boiling water; boil for 1 minute; drain in a sieve, sluice with cold water. The skins will slip off quite easily. (We find that blanched (skinned) almonds never have as good a flavour as the whole ones.) Chill the almonds in the fridge.
Put the zest and the chilled skinned almonds into a food processor with half the sugar and pulse in short bursts until the zest has completely been incorporated into the sugar and almond mix, and the mix is the texture of the sugar; do it in short bursts so as not to generate too much heat in the food processor. If the mixture heats it gets oily. Chilling everything helps prevent this.
Now using the remainder of the sugar, the egg yolks and the milk proceed according to the recipe for Standard Italian Gelato page 75. Once the custard is cooked stir in the honey, then the processed almonds, sugar and lemon zest then cool, cover and chill in the fridge.
When ready, taste and add the lemon juice, if liked, a teaspoon at a time. In this gelato you should be able to taste the almonds, lemon and honey clearly. Then either still orstir freeze and store (pages 80 to 81). Serve within 1 hour or, if frozen solid, allow 30 minutes in the fridge to soften sufficiently for serving. Serve it just on its own.