This cute but practical travel baby-changing mat, will not only keep baby comfy, it also neatly stores baby-changing essentials. This changing mat coordinates with the Fashionista Baby Bag but it will still look the business in your existing baby bag, or it would make a lovely gift for a new mum or mum-to-be.
Need to know
• Please read the advice in the Fashionista Baby Bag project before starting.
• For the lining (or baby-changing) side I have used table protector. It is usually white foam that has been embossed with hexagon shapes (the other side has a felt-like texture). It is perfect for this project as it is sturdy, wipe-clean, soft and not too thick to sew with. It should be quite easy to get hold of.
• All seam allowances are 1cm (3?8in) unless stated otherwise.
• Pattern pieces are given in the pull-out section and include the seam allowance.
Cut the fabric and interfacing pieces as follows:
From the Fashionista Changing Mat (Main Body) pattern piece (see pull-out section)
• 1 x exterior fabric
• 1 x lining fabric (table protector) • 1 x woven fusible interfacing
Transfer all pattern notches and markings to the fabric with a disappearing marker
• 1 piece of clear vinyl, 31 x 25cm (121/4 x 97?8in), for the internal zip pouch
• 1 piece of clear vinyl, 55 x 38cm (215?8 x 15in), for the nappy (diaper) slip pocket
From the author of the bestselling The Bag Making Bible (over 70,000 copies sold) come an outstanding collection of 12 inspiring bags for you to make at home. 12 bags and purses for every occasion Full-size pull-out patterns to use right away Fully photographed step-by-step instructions© 2013 Lisa Lam / David & Charles · Reproduced with permission.
The interfacing and Velcro
Interface the exterior pattern pieces – iron the woven fusible interfacing pattern piece to the WS exterior main body pattern piece.
Make the Velcro tab – cut a 36cm (141?8in) length from the bias binding. Fold the bias into thirds. See Fig a1. Take the loop (fuzzy) part of the Velcro and stitch it to the tab (through all layers) 1.5cm (5?8in) down from a short edge. Stitch along the short edges of the Velcro only.
Fig a1 As you fold the bias binding into thirds, match up the long side edges.
Then topstitch all around the folded bias with a 3mm (1?8in) seam allowance (at the same time stitching though the long edges of the Velcro). See Fig a2–a3. Set aside.
Fig a2 This tricksy stitching (seen from RS) means that the topstitching and the Velcro stitching look nice and neat together (rather than a looking like a messy tangle of stitching). Fig a3 View from WS.
Stitch the Velcro to the exterior – take the hook (bristly) part of the Velcro and stitch it (hook side up) to the exterior RS at the Velcro pattern marking. Stitch all around the Velcro with a 3mm (1?8in) seam allowance.
The internal zip pouch
Attach the zip to one side of the pouch – fully open the zip. Working from the open (free)
end of the zip, place one of the short edges of the vinyl along one of the long RS edges of the zip, match the edges and clip together. See Fig b1.
Fig b1 Open the zip and match the short edge of the vinyl to one of the long edges of the zip.
Attach the zipper foot to your machine and stitch the zip to the vinyl short edge with a 0.5cm (3?16in) seam allowance. Repeat with the other side of the zip and the other vinyl short edge. See Fig b2.
Fig b2 You should now have a vinyl tube with a zip running through the centre.
Topstitch the zip on the RS of the pouch – fold the vinyl back at the zip stitches you made in the previous step. Press the fold firmly with your fingers. Attach the non-stick foot to your machine and topstitch along the RS folded edge 2mm (1?16in) away from the edge. Repeat with the other side of the zip and then fully close the zip. See Fig c.
Fig c Use a non-stick foot and topstitch along the RS folded edge of the vinyl – this should be the result.
Stitch one of the short edges of the tube shut –
turn the vinyl tube WSO. Ensuring the zip is in
a central position, flatten the tube and stitch one d2 of the short edges shut. See Fig d1.
Fig d1 Stitch along the same short edge of the pouch where the zip pull is located. Clip off the corners.
Open the zip,
turn the pouch RSO and finger press the stitched
short edge to flatten it. Topstitch along the stitched
short edge of the pouch, 0.5cm (3?16in) away from the
edge. Ensure the zip pull is half open on the pouch
before trimming off the excess zip to match the
open short edge of the pouch. See Fig d2. Set aside.
Fig d2 Before you cut the zip, ensure that the zip pull is on the part of the zip that you want to retain. If you accidentally cut the zip pull off the zip it’s nearly impossible to get it back on again.
The nappy (diaper) slip pocket
Trim the short edge of the slip pocket – cut a 38cm (15in) length of bias binding, fold it in half lengthways RST and iron the fold. Place the folded bias over one of the short edges of the vinyl and stitch in place to bind the edge. Stitch 2mm (1?16in) from the edge of the bias.
Fold the pocket and bind the pocket – measuring from the bound short edge of the vinyl, measure and mark 25.5cm (10in) along the long edge of the vinyl. Fold the vinyl at the mark you have just made and match the edges. Cut a 30.5cm (12in) length of bias binding and fold in one of the short edges 1cm (3?8in) to the WS. Fold the bias in half lengthways RST and iron the fold. Place the folded bias over one of the raw side edges of the pocket. Stitch in place to bind the edge. See
Fig e. Stitch 2mm (1?16in) from the edge of the bias. Repeat with the other side edge of the pocket.
Stitch the central divider in the slip pocket – find and mark the centre line of the pocket. Fold the remaining length of bias in the same way as in Step 8 and stitch it down the centre off the pocket. See Fig f.
Fig f Create a central divider in the pocket. Using bias to divide the pocket reinforces the pocket centre and it looks nice too!
Assembling the mat
Stitch the Velcro tab to the curved top edge – take the Velcro tab (loop/fuzzy side facing
up) and place the short raw edge of the tab onto the centre curved top edge of the RS mat exterior. Match the edges, clip together and stitch with a 0.5cm (3?16in) seam allowance.
Stitch the pockets to the exterior – take the internal zip pouch RSO and place the short raw edge of the pouch onto the long side edge of
the exterior RS at the internal zip pouch pocket pattern marking. Match the edges, clip together and stitch with a 0.5cm (3?16in) seam allowance. Repeat with the nappy (diaper) slip pocket.
Stitch the exterior to the lining – bring the lining and exterior pieces RST, match all
edges and clip together. Stitch all around the mat leaving an 18cm (7in) gap in the bottom edge for turning out.
Curvalicious ... Tomaketurningouteasierand neaterc, lipoffthecornersandmake smalscissornicksalongthecurved topedgeseamb, utdonotcuttoo close to the stitching.
Turn the mat RSO and topstitch – turn the mat RSO through the gap in the bottom. Take
your time to push out all the corners, the sides and the curved top edge. Push the raw edges of the gap into the hole and clip the gap shut. To help prevent the layers from moving during topstitching, use sewing clips to clip all around the edges of the mat. Topstitch along the top and side edges of the mat with a 1cm (3?8in) seam allowance. When you get to the bottom edge, topstitch with a 0.5cm (3?16in) seam allowance, stitching the gap shut as you sew. All done! You now have a cute, comfy and organized place to change baby on the go!